Look out for: a smooth surface and texture that’s firm without being dry, oily without being mushy. Pepper or spice shouldn’t overpower the smoky flavour. 

Guest panellist: Mitch Tonks, founder of Fishworks (www.fishworks.co.uk).

THE TOP THREE

***** Asda Mackerel Fillets, £7.92/kg

Wow… this is a very good piece of smoked mackerel. There’s a firm texture and a smoky goldenness to the shiny skin, and the whole peppercorns balance the lovely, sweet caramel flavour.

**** Marks & Spencer Peppered Smoked Mackerel, £16.99/kg

This one’s big on flavour, with a heavy, earthy smoke. There’s a particularly spicy prickliness on the back of your tongue from the pepper, which makes for a good balance.

**** Sainsbury’s Peppered Smoked Mackerel Fillets, £7.92/kg

There’s no spice here, and it’s a sugary sweet cure… Could be a good way of getting kids into seafood, actually. Very nice – a good mustard dressing will complement it perfectly.

AND THE REST…

*** Co-op Smoked Peppered Scottish Mackerel, £9.99/kg

Pleasant enough, but it’s a touch dry and feels like it’s been cooked too long. You get smokiness, but not so much sweetness.

*** Waitrose Hot Smoked Mackerel Fillets, 11.99/kg

What you take for big and juicy turns out to be mushy and just a bit too fishy… The oiliness dominates any smoked flavour.

* Tesco Smoked Mackerel with Peppercorns, £7.92/kg

A sorry-looking fish – you can see the creamy protein leeching out from it being overcooked. Texture is fluffy as a result, and the harsh, finely ground pepper dominates.

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