Look out for: fish that has been cut to an even thickness, and which is neither dry nor fatty and overly oily. The smoke should never completely mask the flavour of fish. 

Guest panellist: Mitch Tonks, founder of FishWorks (www.fishworks.co.uk).

THE TOP THREE

**** Marks & Spencer Kiln Smoked Orkney Salmon, 100g, £5.49

Looks like premium stuff. The texture is thin and firm, and there’s a real freshness to balance out the heavy smoke.

** Co-Op Freedom Food Scottish Smoked Salmon, 100g, £3.59

You get a lovely soft texture and sweet, smoky aroma, while the fish has an almost caramel aftertaste. A touch salty.

*** John West Mild Oak Smoked Scottish Salmon, 200g, £5.99

It’s a little oily, but there’s a good flavour profile – delicate saltiness and smokiness working well in a rather light cure.

AND THE REST…

** Asda Extra Special Scottish Smoked Salmon, 100g, £2.64

There’s something odd going on here: you get an onslaught of smokiness, but no fish flavour. The more you chew the more it tastes disconcertingly like a frankfurter.

** Waitrose Smoked Salmon, 140g, £4.89

The texture is firm and even, but the fish is too oily, and you end up with a flavour more like mackerel or herring than salmon. Salty too – you’ll want a glass of water afterwards.

NO STARS H. Forman & Son Smoked Scottish Salmon, 200g, £6.99

Gah… there’s no flavour here, just a nasty greasiness… plus the cuts look careless. Absolutely rank. ben machell

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