There was a time when samphire was known only to locals familiar with scouring coastlines for wild food, or the regular customers of certain fishmongers, who would expect it to appear on display in the summer months. Now, however, like so many other traditional foods, this marshland plant is becoming so popular it is being sent out by mail order and its season is eagerly anticipated.

What is it, exactly? Not to be confused with rock samphire, a small woody shrub that grows on cliffs, marsh samphire, or glasswort, is an edible plant which grows on muddy flats and salt marshes and looks like a thin, miniature cactus.

The Norfolk coast is famous for it, which is why when Jeff and Karen Nethercott opened their award-winning shop at Blickling Hall in Aylsham three years ago, they called it Samphire. “A local lady picks the samphire for us, and it will be in season, weather permitting, until around September,” says Jeff, who weighs the samphire into bags and sends it out overnight by courier in chilled boxes when orders come in from around the country.

“On the one hand, we get calls from a long way away because samphire has really grown in popularity; on the other, we still get a lot of people who come into the shop and don’t really know what it is,” he says. “We are always being asked whether it is a seaweed, how you cook it and what it tastes like.”

So how do you cook it? While it is quite versatile and can be used in recipes from salads (it can be eaten raw) to pasta, risotto and soups, Jeff reckons simple is best. “We tell people to wash it well, put it into boiling water for three minutes, without adding any salt, because samphire has a salty flavour to begin with, then eat it with a little bit of butter or vinegar and black pepper. That way you can really ­appreciate the flavour and the sensation of biting into the stems. It’s ­traditionally served with fish, but I also like it as a starter, just on its own, like ­asparagus.” And the flavour? “Difficult to describe; it’s green and salty,” says Jeff.

How long does it keep for? Put the samphire in the fridge, but be careful not to bruise it. It should last for about five days.

Where to buy: From local fishmongers or by mail order from Samphire (01263 734464; www.samphireshop.co.uk). Place your order on Tuesday and the samphire is then picked on Wednesday, and packed and sent out overnight on Thursday. It costs £1.30 for 200g.

Readers’ queries

Where can I buy smoked sea salt? Halen Mon in Anglesey smokes its sea salt over Welsh oak chippings (£4.25 for 100g), which it says gives an almost sweet edge (01248 430399; www.seasalt.co.uk).

food.detective@thetimes.co.uk

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