The world economic crisis has hit borrowers in the US, banks in Britain and homeowners in Spain. Now it has claimed perhaps its most startling victim to date: the Gallic gastronome.

Lunches are being skipped, dinners shortened and apéritifs overlooked as the French cut back on their most cherished pleasure in an attempt to save their euros, according to new figures. Restaurants, bistros and cafés are reporting an historic drop in takings this summer amid signs that le pays de la gastronomie is turning to sandwiches and picnics.

Chefs say that the rare customers still reserving tables are resorting to one-course meals and a single glass of wine, sipped with glacial caution.

Diners are tending to abandon les entrées, les desserts and e café under a drastic cost-saving drive, they say.

“People have a lot less money now so when they go away on holiday, they have to chose what to spend it on and they often decide to cut the food budget,” Francis Attrazic, the vice-chairman of the French Union of Café, Restaurant and Hotel Owners, said.

“Lunch is disappearing almost completely a lot of the time, people don’t always have an apéritif any more and the evening meal is being lightened.” A survey by his union revealed a fall of up to 30 per cent in restaurant and café custom in tourist regions this month compared with July last year.

The study suggested that the number of holidaymakers is stable but that they are spending less on food. The findings do not apply to foreigners, notably the British, Germans and Russians, who are still dining in style. The French, though, are forgoing les plaisirs de la table.

On the French Riviera, for instance, restaurants no longer have a key role for holidaymakers, who tend to prefer a sandwich at lunchtime and a show rather than a meal, the survey said. In the south west, chefs said that their restaurants were alarmingly empty at midday and in the evening.

Interviewed on Europe 1 radio yesterday, a café owner in Toulouse said: “People just don’t have enough money to hang around in bars any more.

“And when they come, they consume a lot less wine, no more than is strictly necessary. They make their glass last a long time and they don’t knock back one glass after another these days.” Guy-Noël Chatelain, a partner in OC&C consultancy, which spe-cialises in consumer trends, said that the French were rediscovering the picnic and the sandwich to make a dwindling disposable income go farther.

His words were borne out by the Saint Martin canal in Paris yesterday where Raphaëlle Davin, a 26-year-old office worker, was eating a salad she had bought for €6.60 (£5.18). She said that she would have paid double that for a meal in a restaurant.

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