Patrick Foster
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When Antony Worrall Thompson, the celebrity chef, used a magazine interview to detail the joys of foraging for wild herbs, he recommended a little-known plant as a salad leaf.
In abundant supply, locally grown and organically produced, henbane would seem to tick all the boxes for television chefs who urge us to embrace a healthier and more environmentally friendly diet.
There was, however, one rather glaring problem – it contains a potentially fatal poison.
Henbane, a close relative of deadly nightshade, is often known as stinking nightshade, because of its pungent odour. Its name, derived from Anglo-Saxon, means “killer of hens”, and consumption can cause hallucinations, convulsions, vomiting and death.
Previous champions of henbane include Dr Crippen, who used an extract of the plant to poison his wife. In Hamlet, Claudius uses a potion containing the drug to kill the king.
Yesterday Mr Worrall Thompson, and Healthy & Organic Living, who published his culinary wisdom, issued an apology, reminding readers that henbane “is a very toxic plant and should never be eaten”.
Healthy & Organic Living, which has a circulation of 40,000, says it is “the only magazine dedicated to providing information and advice for modern women who want to discover how to lead a healthy and organic lifestyle”.
Mr Worrall Thompson, when asked by the publication whether he used any wild foods in his dishes, replied: “The weed henbane is great in salads.” His advice features in the magazine’s August edition, currently on sale, as the error was not noticed until after it had gone to print.
In a letter to subscribers, seen by The Times, Kate Collyns, the magazine’s editor, wrote: “In our August issue, Antony Worrall Thompson suggested that the weed henbane was great in salads. In fact henbane is very toxic and is a Schedule III poison under the Medicines Act. Please discount this suggestion. Antony is very sorry for causing confusion and had quite a different plant in mind.”
In modern complementary medicine henbane is used in low doses to relieve pain in the digestive system. A spokesman for the Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency said that the plant “can only be sold in herbal medicines following a one-to-one consultation with a practitioner”. It can be dispensed only under the supervision of a pharmacist.
Andrew Chevalier, a fellow of the National Institute of Medical Herbalists, said: “It’s a close relative of deadly nightshade and is a very well recognised poisonous plant. Like most poisons it has medicinal properties. It can be used to treat patients with pain affecting the urinary tubules, such as kidney stones, and for certain gut problems. It acts as a sedative, with analgesic properties.”
Those who had followed Mr Worrall Thompson’s lead and constructed a salad of henbane should seek medical help, Mr Chevalier said. “A good portion would probably cause significant gastrointestinal diffculties and a larger dose would be fatal. If anyone has followed Mr Worrall Thompson’s advice they should dial 999 and prepare to have their stomach pumped.”
Mr Worrall Thompson, who has insured his tongue for £500,000 to protect his tastebuds, is currently on holiday in Spain. He told The Timesyesterday: “I was thinking of a wild plant with a similar name, not this herb, but of course I’ve ended up killing half the nation instead.
“The magazine have put out a correction but they printed it in advance. It’s a bit embarrassing, but there have been no reports of any casualties. Please do pass on my apologies.”
Egg on their faces
— Jamie Oliver was embarrassed earlier this year when it emerged that one of his restaurants had been serving eggs from battery hens. The incident came to light as Jamie’s Fowl Dinners, the chef’s plea for the nation to stop cruelty to chickens, was aired on Channel 4
— Delia Smith was ridiculed in 2005 for a half-time outburst on the pitch at Norwich City, as her side were tied 2-2 with Manchester City. The chef, a club director, shouted to the crowd: “We need a 12th man here. Where are you? Let’s be having you! Come on!” Norwich went on to lose 3-2. “I do rather like a lot of wine,” she said
— Channel 4 apologised after airing a Gordon Ramsay show in which the chef claimed to have successfully speared a sea bass off the Devon coast. Ramsay told the camera: “Not bad for a first time out.” Dave O’Callaghan, a member of the British spearfishing squad, later told newspapers: “I caught about four. When we came back in we threaded the fish on to a stringer and he carried them”
— Robert Irvine, a Briton who charmed America with stories of how he had cooked for the Queen and been awarded a knighthood, saw his show Dinner: Impossible cancelled by the Food Network after he admitted concocting a fake CV. Irvine also admitted that he had not been given a castle by Her Majesty
— Marco Pierre White, known for his excitable demeanour, spent a night in the cells in 2005 after being arrested on suspicion of assaulting his wife. The chef was released with no further action taken and both parties insisted no assault had taken place
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Henbane reduces gastric acid and dries the mouth. Also relaxes the gut. Dilates the pupil and accelerates the heart rate. In overdose causes hallucinations, coma, severe fever, and red dry skin. "Hot as a hare, blind as a bat, dry as a bone, red as a beet and mad as a hen" Is not used medically.
Bernard Guratsky, West Kirby,
Food from the wild can be delicious but a false identification can kill. Any would-be forager would do well to acquaint themselves with the <a href="http://www.tracingpaper.org.uk/2008/08/06/poisonous-plants-fungi/">really dangerous plants and fungi</a> before attempting to pick the tasty ones.
Nick, London, UK
Apparently Anthony meant to advocate "Fat Hen" which is a weed and apparently very tasty.
on another note, I think that reference to Crippen might be factually incorrect based on another article in this very paper.
http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/uk/crime/article2674601.ece
Mark, Colchester, UK
Having seen the TV series highlighting his "empire" it is clear that he puts his name to work undertaken by researchers. A dangerous practice.
Chef, Cersay, France
Moral - stick to greengrocer's lettuce, very well washed, tomato and cucumber. That's a proper salad.
cam, essex,
This was obviously an oversight on Anthony's part.
Stephen Holmes, Withington, UK
After tackling mother's sheperd's pie & gagging over the overpowering taste of cinnamon, she said "it's supposed to bring out the flavour & is recommended by xxxxx the tv chef".
As Ramsay's still alive then this is another instance of a chef never eating their recipes.
Pinch of salt anyone?
Ed, Cheshire,
Why won't he NAME the plant he did mean for the salad? The fact that when interviewed he couldn't name the correct plant seems to suggest that he did mean henbane all along and wasn't aware it was toxic.
Roger, London,
shows what happens when brain is not engaged before mouth.
Antonia Woodville, Ryde, UK
In a letter in the Gardeners Chronicle for 1846, the gardener of the Earl of Shrewsbury said rhubarb leaves were tasty and nutritious. Rhubarb leaves are poisonous. In spite of a correction, in the next edition, many people were ill and some died following this advice for years afterwards.
John Robertson, Duns, Scotland