September is one of my favourite months for food. Early varieties of apples and pears have just hit the stalls and it's great to bite into a piece of fruit that you feel is doing you more good than something that has been flown halfway round the world. Knobbly they may be, and with the occasional worm to cut out, but at least I feel as if I am getting proper vitamins.

Organisers of the Aldeburgh Food Festival in Suffolk, which finishes tomorrow, told me that they have been battling with a glut of fruit and vegetables, even though we hear stories of global food shortages. Boxes and boxes of squash, courgette and pumpkin jostle for space with runner and borlotti beans. But the real success story this year has been tomatoes. They might not be uniform in shape, size or colour, but their flavour is wonderful.

Do especially look out for British tomatoes and be a part of British Food Fortnight (www.britishfoodfortnight.co.uk), which aims to highlight and support British producers.

It makes perfect sense to be bulk-buying tomatoes in the markets at knockdown prices. Gather a few friends and spend half a day making passatas and conserves, while you share a simple lunch of fresh bread and cheese. Everyone can go home with tomato sauce for the freezer. The sauces can be unearthed and defrosted later in the year when the cold has got into your bones and you need to uncork a bit of the summer.

With any leftover tomatoes (the baby ones are the nicest for this recipe), you can whizz up this fast, satisfying supper that a girlfriend made for me. It makes me want to get into the garden and grow beans and tomatoes. You never know, perhaps next year I'll be making this pasta dish with my own homegrown tomatoes.

Tomato and basil pasta

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