Attend a special evening hosted by Mike Atherton

Whisky has only ever been notable to me for two reasons. It was the present I bought my father every Christmas and the spirit that gave me the most violent hangover of my life, some 10 years ago. It was the only drink left at a house party, so I drowned a few good measures of Johnny Walker in Coke. The next day’s results were not pretty and I swore never to touch the stuff again.
However, and I’ll be honest here about how shallow and easily bought I am, when offered the opportunity to taste a whisky that costs £290 a dram, I had to put my past experience to one side.
My tasting session is organised by the Lanesborough Hotel’s library bar manager, Giuseppe Ruo, who hands me a glass containing liquid history, a dram of 25 year-old Talisker whisky aged in Jerez sherry casks. It is sweet and smooth and, at the same price as a pair of designer shoes, in no danger of giving me a hangover.
Ruo is something of an ambassador for the whisky world; an Italian who collects whisky as others collect wine and curator of the hotel’s extensive whisky list, his passion is for passing on his knowledge.
Unlike its brother, bourbon, whisky has never benefited from rock-and-roll patronage. While tattoo-clad rockers on their way to rehab regularly clutch bottles of Jack Daniels and Jim Beam, you’re more likely to find Glenfiddich in the hands of a middle-aged bank manager.
This association and the fact that whisky’s slightly harsh flavour can make it a tricky taste to acquire, has probably prevented a lot of drinkers from sampling the spirit.
Drinks giant Diageo recently surveyed a number of UK men and found that while they liked the idea of drinking whisky, they thought the taste might be too challenging.
In response, Diageo is launching a 12-year-old malt whisky, the Singleton of Dufftown, with a super-smooth taste that they say will be easier on the palate.
It was a rather jolly distillery manager called Willie MacDougal who persuaded me to try drinking whisky again. During a tour of the Talisker distillery on the Isle of Skye, he suggested I taste a few and, to my surprise, I found that I actually liked one, the 1993 Distiller’s Edition. Although it still has that peaty, smoky taste, it’s not throat burning and I didn’t feel I wanted to mix it with soda pop.
Delighted that my tasebuds might have matured I returned to London and set off to see Ruo and further my whisky education.
As well as the £290-a-dram Talisker, I try an 18-year-old Macallan, a 15-year-old Glenmorangie and a 10-year-old Talisker. The Talisker is like taking a hit of snuff; it wakes up the senses and I feel as though the fire in my throat can only be quenched with a large gulp of iced water. But once that sensation passes, I have this gorgeous taste of heath and outdoor air left in my mouth.
The Glenmorangie is almost liquorish in texture, and melts in the mouth. It has sweetness to it having been aged in Sauternes casks. The Macallan too had a sweeter taste to it, and I realise that I like my whisky to hit those taste buds normally reserved for cake.
Ruo is not surprised by this; he finds that many female drinkers prefer the sweeter-tasting whiskies. In fact, he recommends guests order a whisky to accompany dessert.
“Take a single malt instead of a dessert wine,” he urges. “Whisky is fantastic at the end of a meal, and wonderful with cheese.”
Given that I used not to be able to bear the smell of whisky, my conversion is quite remarkable. During a night out at Kumo in Knightsbridge I opt for a whisky, and I think I’ve found the key to enjoying this drink. Whisky is something to be sipped and savoured; you have to take an adult approach to its consumption. Maybe that’s why it takes until your mid-30s to appreciate its charms.
Tips from the whisky flavour map:
For a light, delicate taste that's refreshing and a good introduction to whisky try a 12 year-old Glen Spey or a 12 year-old Glenkinchie.
For a more smoky taste, try a whisky that's come from a heavy concentration of peated barley, such as a 12 year-old Highland Park or an 18 year-old Talisker.
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