TOM AIKENS: OYSTERS WITH RED WINE VINEGAR

In 1996, aged just 26, Aikens became the youngest chef to be awarded two Michelin stars. His haute cuisine restaurant, Tom Aikens, opened in 2003. His latest book, Fish, was published this month (Ebury £25).

What to drink with oysters

This sauce, with its two vinegars and lemon, is tricky. I think Picpoul de Pinet, the oyster-friendly white from Languedoc, works best. I am also recommending an excellent Sancerre that isn’t too fruity.

2007 Domaine des Lauriers Picpoul de Pinet, £6.20 Crisp, dry and medium-bodied, with lemon and lightly spicy almond flavours (Tanners, 01743 234500).

2007 Domaine de Creyssels Picpoul de Pinet, £6.95 Medium-bodied, tangy, herbal and citrussy (Stone, Vine & Sun, 01962 712351).

2007 Gérard Boulay Sancerre, £12.50 Intense, herby and chalky character, with a briny tang that echoes the oysters (Vine Trail, 0117 921 1770). JS

Buy the best oysters and caviar

Wright Bros Oyster suppliers to the restaurant trade, Wright Bros now sells to the public by mail order. From nutty spéciales de claire to creamy-fleshed pacifics from Carlingford Lough in Ireland, Europe is your oyster. Top choice, though, are the invigorating, minerally natives from Helford in Cornwall, where the company has its own oyster beds. From £12.30 a dozen. Order by Dec 19; wrightbros.eu.com.

Imperial Select Osietra Wild caviar is under threat, but this farmed version, produced in Italy by Iranian experts, is an amazing alternative. The brownish eggs, from baerii Siberian sturgeon, have the perfect degree of salt and maturation. Delectable and sustainable. From £54 for 30g, from Harvey Nichols; harveynichols.com.

Click here for oysters with red wine and vinegar recipe

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