Pigeons were such a regular source of winter protein in Mrs Beeton’s time that she gives details in her famous Book of Household Management of the 12 best types to eat. For a tender young bird, rub well with butter and either roast whole or split open down the back and broil (grill) — then baste often. Tough old birds went into a pie.

For Beeton (1836-1865), pigeons were mostly reared in dovecots. Today, most pigeons are wild woodpigeons, shot as a small game bird. They make good eating, their powerful breast muscles providing the most meaty part.

It’s tempting to fillet this out for a stir-fry and put the remainder of the carcass into a gamey stock pot. But hang on, says Mark Hix, in British Seasonal Food, why not avoid the big bird Christmas hassle and make your roast of small game birds?

They take less than half an hour and it’s more fun discovering the different flavours, making the whole process into a bit of a ceremony, accompanied by bread sauce and game chips (crisps).

Hix allows two small birds per person and serves them on a wooden platter with a pan of gravy or hedgerow jelly, along with buttered sprout tops tossed with roast chestnuts.

British Seasonal Food by Mark Hix, Quadrille, £25; Hubertus Game, Ferry Road, Pitlochry, 01796 473 254; Burnside Farm Foods, Rutherford Lodge, Kelso, 01573 229 890

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