Local workers refer to the cool, picturesque Nilgiri Hills as India’s Switzerland. Dunsandle, which has steep slopes furrowed by row upon row of immaculately pruned tea plants, is typical.

Beneath the chocolate-box façade, however, discontent stirs. Word of a foreign visitor brought the labourers on the Fairtrade-certified estate scurrying from tiny stone huts. Before long, talk turned to fierce criticisms of working conditions.

“No matter what the propaganda [related to Fairtrade] in Europe, nothing is being done here to help us,” one woman said.

None of the workers I spoke to had heard of Fairtrade, despite Dunsandle being certified in 2000. They were bemused by the idea that a premium is paid for some of the tea they produce to ensure that they enjoy better conditions.

One said: “If there is extra money, we have no idea what is happening to it. We requested help to buy gas, or a bus to take the children to school. There was talk of a community centre being built, but nothing has happened.”

Part of the problem is that Dunsandle has sold only a small amount of Fairtrade tea. The estate earned only $11,850 through Fairtrade premiums in the past three years; not enough, according to the Fairtrade Foundation, to make a marked difference to its workers’ lives.

Even so, this extra money has sparked anger among the workers, who claim that they have not been consulted on its use, which should have happened under Fairtrade guidelines. Much of it has gone into a retirement bond scheme, which is poorly understood and widely resented by the people whom I met. Nobody knew the retirement scheme was related to Fairtrade and several believed that the money in it was paid as a bonus for picking only the tips of the tea.

Several workers said that they were considering leaving the estate for one with better conditions.

Many of those staying said that the good housing at Dunsandle was an important benefit. However, they worried about their future: when they retire they must give up their homes. Most wanted any extra cash to go on their children’s education. “I pray that this work will die with me,” one man said. “I want something better for my sons.”

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