Michael Wale
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Millions of pints of milk are imported into Britain every week but scores of our own dairy farmers are going out of business. The pricing policy of supermarkets is blamed by many for making it harder than ever to maintain a profitable business.
Diversification is the watchword in agriculture and one Hampshire farmer has joined forces with his community to show the industry one way to keep Britain's dairy farms alive.
At a farm in Hook, a nine-year-old black-and-white cow called Daisy is the inspiration behind a new kind of country club: a working dairy that the public can sponsor.
The Daisy Trust has been masterminded by James Hague, a farmer who, four years ago, took on a 130-acre tenanted farm in Hook, Hampshire, owned by the county council. He ran a successful, grass-fed dairy herd, producing delicious milk that was bottled and delivered within 24 hours of milking. It became so popular that
he ended up delivering it to 1,600 homes within a 25-mile radius. The milk, under the branding Daisy's Dairy, featured a picture of his first cow, Daisy, on the crates. Customers also received a fridge magnet of Daisy and a regular newsletter that the farm printed on the back of their bills.
Hague decided to expand, but an investment deal fell through last summer. Frustrated, he decided to wind up his dairy business. The response from customers was overwhelming. He was inundated with letters of sadness at the demise of Daisy's Dairy, and praise for the personal service that it had offered. Touched and inspired, Hague abandoned plans to move abroad and has formed the Daisy Trust. In two months he hopes to have a new dairy herd
and get his milk back on the market in Basingstoke and Deane, Hampshire. To do this, householders who want Daisy's delicious fresh milk and cream delivered to their doorsteps are being asked to take out an annual subscription of £250 to the trust. In return, they receive a 5 per cent discount on milk, a loyalty card that can be used in farm shops, sponsorship of a cow, a quarterly newsletter about it and the chance to name its calves.
The highest investment available is £1,000. Hague is offering these to companies in the hope that they will be lured by the idea of corporate days out on the farm. The idea seems to be working. About 1,000 customers have signed up. Hague already has £50,000 to invest in his next dairy herd, which will fortunately still include, the original cow that became a successful brand.
The farm isn't organic, but, contrary to the techniques used on big farms, where dairy cows are mostly kept indoors, Hague's herds are grazed on lightly fertilised pasture. This improves their lifespans, and the taste of their milk.
Daisy the cow will appear in a repackaged form - Hague is busy designing new milk bottles. He is also negotiating backing from an ethical bank and is hoping that Hampshire County Council, will offer a grant.
“This is a not-for-profit social enterprise,” says Hague. “One million litres of milk are imported into this country every day. British farmers are giving up dairy farming because of the low prices paid by the supermarkets. We are giving people the chance to invest in their own farming.
“We want to encourage other farmers to run dairy farms in the same way. We will buy milk from our neighbours and pay them a proper price for it.”
Hague is forming a board made up of six local people to help to run the trust. They are not farmers, but will bring in other skills. Irfan Agha, for example, worked in advertising in London before moving to Rotherwick, where the Daisy Trust is based. He sees the trust as part of his duty to foster community spirit in rural life. “I have also really missed the fresh milk since the farm closed,” he says. “It's a 40-minute return trip to get my milk from the supermarket now and it just doesn't taste the same.”
Agha also hopes to see the educational benefits of Daisy's Dairy return. Every year at least 2,000 schoolchildren - who are rarely, if ever, exposed to rural practices - used to visit the farm to meet Daisy and learn about dairy farming. The trust aims to fund structured programmes to teach children about food production and its impact on the environment.
It's this connection between agriculture and community that Hague and his supporters are so keen to re-introduce to this corner of Hampshire. Along with some very fine milk, and a bovine celebrity called Daisy.
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