It is only in recent years that mutton has fallen out of favour in British kitchens — and that is probably something to do with our desire for all things young, from our celebrities to baby vegetables.

But since sheep were introduced to Britain 2,000 years ago, they have been providing us not only with milk, cheese, wool and parchment from their skins, but also, of course, meat, in the form of mutton and lamb.

Mutton is seen as inferior, tough meat but this is usually because of overcooking.

I love its rich, complex flavours and cooked correctly it can provide a delicious rich stew or even a tender rare loin.

The best mutton I have found is Herdwick and any good-quality butcher should be able to get you some.

Cooked or served with incisive or bitter flavours such as fennel or endive, mutton deserves to feature once more on our palates and on our dinner plates.

What you need

Serves 2

Prep 29 mins
Cook 13mins

200g mutton backstrap
100g purple stem broccoli
80g barrel-aged feta
2 bunches of rocket
1 rosemary stalk
75ml olive oil
15ml balsamic vinegar
1 clove of garlic

METHOD

Preheat the oven and baking tray at 180C. Combine the washed rocket and roughly chopped feta in a bowl. Wash off any excess dirt and peel the leaves off the broccoli. Peel the clove of garlic and lightly crush with the palm of your hand.

Add the olive oil, rosemary and crushed garlic to baking tray and place in oven to infuse for 3minutes.

Season the broccoli with salt and pepper, add to the baking tray and coat with infused oil and cook.

After 4 minutes, add the mutton loin and coat with hot oil, then cook for six minutes.

Remove from the oven. Cover the loin with foil and leave to rest for 8 minutes. Meanwhile, add the broccoli to the rocket and feta. Dress with balsamic vinegar, juices and oil from the baking tray. Pile on a plate and place sliced loin on top.

The author is the head chef of The Greyhound at Battersea, 136 Battersea High Street, London SW11 www.thegreyhoundatbattersea.co.uk

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