What’s it like? The only pub owned by the nearby Meantime brewery, the Greenwich Union is a lighthouse of well-made, flavoursome beers in a sea of dross, with an atmosphere to match. With a flagstone floor, zinc bar top and chunky wooden tables, the combination of great beer, a youngish crowd and a management and staff that actually care about the place sets it apart from the neighbouring chains and sticky-carpeted tourist-entrapment zones, creating a buzzing environment that draws all manner of punters. There’s a leafy garden if you want a faint tang of the Thames, but no seafaring references here, which, after the cornucopia of saltiness down the road, makes a nice change.

What to drink? Even without the prospect of viewing Nelson’s bloodstained undergarments, Greenwich is worth a visit simply to sample Meantime’s excellent range of award-winning beers. Up to ten Meantime brews are on offer, from a matured Pilsener to a complex chocolate beer, plus a variety of good foreign bottles including Anchor Steam from the US and Cooper’s from Australia. Even the most committed admirer of the naval tradition would have to admit that a selection of these, helped along by some of the pub’s very good food, beats rum, sodomy and the lash every time.

The Greenwich Union, 56 Royal Hill, London SE10 (020-8692 6258)

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