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Besides an episode of Lost, there’s nothing like a trip to the zoo to
help you realise how badly designed humans are. We don’t have the outer
coating to cope with the climate, we’d have a beast of a time trying to live
off anything that roams or grows around Regent’s Park, and most of us would
trade our whole collection of Little Angels DVDs to get the kids to
behave as well as those baby gorillas. Which is why it’s deeply reassuring
that just a couple of blocks from London Zoo is a place that celebrates two
of the key properties that we’ve got and they haven’t, namely nice drinks
and conversation, and where even your untamed offspring are welcome.
What's it like? Set among the elegant terraces of Primrose
Hill, the Albert combines a slice of the local gentility with the
fundamentals of a good boozer, resulting in a place that’s a pleasure to
enter at any time but particularly when you’ve just watched the red-kneed,
bird-eating spiders being fed. Painted a warm terracotta, the pub features
velvet drapes with gold tassels, big frosted windows, a splendid wooden bar,
lovely polished tables and, perhaps most importantly for hairless humans, a
fine and functioning fireplace, all very comforting after a day of highly
educational but slightly unsettling wildness. There’s also a sizeable
family-friendly no-smoking area, a bright conservatory and a heated outside
patio, and thankfully the only concession to zoological matters is one study
of a gorilla, not counting Jessie the pub border collie.
What to drink? After all that steaming hay, raw meat and
slobbery water, a pint of Foster’s would look good, but the Albert provides
reasonable ales on tap plus Hoegaarden and Pilsner Urquell, so you needn’t
stoop that far. There’s also an interesting food menu, organic cider and a
wine list to suit the locale, but the drinks are only part of it. The real
pleasure of the Albert is sitting back in one of those nice chairs, gripping
your glass and being very grateful for your opposable thumb.
The Albert, 11 Princess Road, Primrose Hill, London NW1 (020-7722 1886)
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