Most Victorian gardens would have had a quince tree or two, their fruit ready to be served with roasted game and other meats, or made into jellies, jams and puddings (quince jams were the forerunners of marmalade, from the Portuguese word for quince, marmelo). Like so many of our traditional fruits, however, quince fell out of favour over the years as orchards disappeared. Now, however, quince is making a comeback. Today, Quince Day will be celebrated at National Trust gardens such as the Greyfriars in Worcester (01905 23571; www.nationaltrust.org.uk) and the walled garden at Norton Priory Museum Trust in Runcorn, Cheshire, home of the national collection of more than 20 varieties.

“There is a huge interest in old varieties of fruit in general, and the number of people who want to buy quince is amazing,” says Norton Priory’s Paul Quigley. “Often they’re not that sure what to do with it, so we usually give them a recipe.”

Charles and Shirley Trollope of Clay Barn Orchard in Fingringhoe, near Colchester, switched from growing apples commercially to quince in 1973. “There used to be quince all over the countryside when I was a boy,” remembers Charles, “but when we first started, you couldn’t even buy the trees.” They grow three varieties: the larger Vranja and Pear-Shaped quince, which they sell at the orchard and by mail order, and the smaller Ludovic, preferred by juice and conserve producers. They also supply fruit to liqueur specialists, Bramley & Gage, who report a surge in popularity for their quince liqueur, especially in cocktail bars (Quince Collins is apparently quite a hit).

Though quince is much cherished in Mediterranean countries where the climate is more favourable, Trollope believes that English quinces have the superior colour, especially for jellies. “We have an extra growing month, so the fruit is a bit more mature and, as a result, turns the most gorgeous dark red when you cook it.”

How do you use quince?

Quince flesh is too bitter to eat raw, but becomes sweet and aromatic when cooked. You need to peel the skin, remove the core and seeds, then chop and cook like apples and pears. Serve them baked with cream (they also have an affinity with honey), or in pies and tarts, mixed, if you like, with apple (cook the quince a little first, because it will take longer).

Where to buy

Clay Barn Orchard (01206 735405); Norton Priory (01928 569895); Brogdale (01795 535286; www.brogdale.org); Blackmoor Nurseries (01420 473576; www.blackmoor.co.uk); quince liqueur from Bramley & Gage (01364 73722; www.bramleyandgage.co.uk).

Readers’ queries

I heard that Chocolate Olivers are going to be made again, having disappeared for years. Is this true?

Yes – the relaunched Huntley & Palmers is bringing back the famous biscuits, reputed to have been the favourite of John Lennon and the Queen Mother, at the end of October. You’ll find them in Waitrose and specialist food shops.

If you have a food query, e-mail food.detective@thetimes.co.uk

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