While the strawberry season is short and sweet, raspberries will keep coming at you right into the autumn. They need to be used within 24 hours, so eat them as soon as you have an excuse to do so . Their joy is in the perfect balance of tartness and sweetness, and they can step up to most challenges. Press them between two layers of sponge along with whipped cream for real Victoria sponge, or eat alongside brownies to lift the chocolate — they’ll sit happily alongside any chocolate, although the world seems divided between those who prefer them with dark, and those whole like them to lift white chocolate puddings.

Don’t forget ice cream either — make an easy sundae by layering them with vanilla ice cream and topping with hot chocolate sauce (melt dark chocolate with a couple of tablespoons of condensed milk) and flaked almonds.

They will share space with most fruit, whether in a soft salad of peaches and mint, a trifle or a deeply intense summer pudding. For the simplest one, roll ricotta with granulated sugar and lemon zest, and sprinkle over the top of a platter of raspberries.

They are particulary delectable suspended in elderflower jelly and it’s easier than it sounds. Dilute elderflower cordial with an equal amount of water. Soak gelatine leaves (you will need 6 per 500ml) separately in cold water for 5 minutes then drain, heat up a small amount of the elderflower mixture till nearly boiling, and whisk in the soft leaves till dissolved. Stir in the rest of the (cold) liquid along with the berries (and a sprig of mint), transfer to a mould or glass bowl and leave to set overnight. Give half-set liquid a stir after a couple of hours, so that the berries don’t all float to the top, although I quite like them like that.

For a perfect summer drink, blend raspberries with a little sugar and push the pulp through a fine or fruit sieve and top with cold prosecco.

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