Clafoutis is one of the most seductive puddings. It’s made by hiding a layer of plump, dark cherries under a blanket of thick, fluffy batter, then baked until it billows beautifully, with the fruit protruding deliciously through the surface. There is virtually no chance of it going wrong. It looks temptingly bouffant when it comes out of the oven — and it’s tempting to serve it immediately — but clafoutis is better left to settle back on itself and continue to firm as it cools. It may not look as good 30 minutes later, but that’s the best time to eat it, when the sweet, bouncy egg custard is in perfect contrast to the slightly softened but gently weeping fruit.

The dish dates to the 19th century and is associated with the Limousin region of central France, where it might originally have been made with tart griotte cherries.

Aficionados insist that unpitted cherries make the best clafoutis because the stones contribute an almond-like flavour. I still have fond memories of the cherry pies my mother used to make using fruit from the trees in our garden. Part of the charm was counting the stones afterwards and playing Rich Man, Poor Man, but since someone cracked a crown, I prefer to pit the cherries and use Italian amaretto to give a hint of almond. It is also possible to reinforce the cherry flavour with kirsch.

Use full-fat milk instead of semi-skimmed. The batter will also be richer if made with cream or half cream and half milk. British cherries are being celebrated next weekend at Borough Market, South London, where there will be many versions of Clafoutis de Limousin offered up (see www.FoodLoversBritain.com). This recipe also works well with blueberries, raspberries, loganberries, blackberries, greengages, roast tomatoes and pineapple, although the dish will no longer be clafoutis, but flognarde. I can see why that name hasn’t caught on.

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