Nick Wyke
2 for 1 at Pizza Express
Marianne Lumb gave up a place at a prestigious architecture school in London
to peel potatoes at the Olde Stocks restaurant in Grimston, Leicestershire.
Anyone who saw her asparagus crowns on MasterChef: The Professionals – they
looked like classical order temples – knows she has an eye for form.
She packs her food with another prized ingredient, too, highly sought after by
judge Michel Roux Jnr - “flavour”. Her first food memory is finishing off
the mashed potato with loads of butter, salt and pepper, aged five. “I was a
greedy child who ate everything – even spinach - maybe that’s why I grew so
tall,” she says. At a little over 6ft she towers above Roux, though the
camera angles rarely let this show.
Despite the occasional “crumble” under pressure and a penchant for undercooked
meat, Lumb, 34, holds her own on the all-male BBC show. But there are
moments when she feels excluded. “Daniel and Steve are good mates [with each
other] and quite blokey so there are times when I feel left out. They like
to wind me up but they’re lovely and after an experience like this we’ll be
mates for life.”
One thing they all have in common is an obsessive nature and a will to win:
“We’re all perfectionists,” she says. “One negative comment, even if 99 per
cent is good, and we beat ourselves up about it.”
Lumb worked a spell in the Michelin-starred kitchen at Gravetye Manor in West
Sussex ten years ago, but as the only chef among the three not currently
working in a restaurant kitchen she admits that her presentation and
attention to detail might not be as consistent as that of her fellow
finalists. Her work, however, as a private caterer allows her to withstand
the sort of grin-and-bear it interference with her food that “a cheffy chef
just can’t handle”.
“I cook what people want to eat rather than what I’d choose to cook if I owned
my own restaurant. Both Steve and Dan use sophisticated techniques and have
an exquisite gentle touch but sometimes that’s too fiddly. I prefer to keep
food closer to its original state.” She describes her food style as
“stylish, eclectic and seasonal with a luxurious feel”. Her favourite
cuisines include Italian and Thai and she adores the cosiness of La
Fromagerie, a cheese shop in London’s Marylebone.
So how badly does she want to win tonight’s final?
“I’m already pretty successful and have a great client base [she cooks
privately for high-profile celebrities and politicians, including Elton John
and David Cameron, but refuses to reveal more details – perhaps a wise move
given the furore over favourite biscuits last week]. But it would be
fantastic and a great accolade to win. Equally, being the first woman in the
top three is brilliant,” says Lumb.
Win or lose she will take away a great deal from the experience. “Other chefs
work a lifetime to get praise from the Roux family. Michel was fantastic and
very supportive. I think he’s fair but he could be really annoying when he
said things like ‘It needs a bit more seasoning’ (she mimics his voice in
coddling tones)”. Much of the praise she is hearing for the first time as
the show is aired on TV this week.
Growing up in Long Clawson, where Stilton is made, Lumb would pick up cheaper
“tastier” cuts of meat such as brisket and ham from her father’s butcher’s
shop on the way home from school. Her mother would cook Julia Child’s boeuf
bourguignon in the Aga, followed by chewy meringues.
Lumb shone in home economics classes at King Edward VII school in Melton
Mowbray, foodie central in the Midlands and home to the famous pork pies,
where she cooked blancmange, scones, and baked apples. She’s keen to get
cooking firmly back on the school curriculum.
Winning tonight will help with her agenda. But the task in hand is a
formidable one – cooking dinner for 30 chefs with more than 40 Michelin
stars between them.
“At least they’ll understand what we’re going through and will have some
sympathy. Besides I cook every meal like its going to the Queen or Michelin
inspectors.” The proof will be, as they say, in the starter, main and
pudding.
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