What’s it like?
The O’Conor Don has made a name as one of the most authentically Irish pubs in London without putting leprechauns on the bar or making the staff dye their hair green. There’s no shortage of old Guinness adverts, the black-and-white logo is displayed in mosaic form on the floor and the brewer’s enigmatic toucan has a prime spot in a glass case over the fireplace, but, besides a few painted harps, that’s about it. The real resemblance to the genuine article is more subtle, in the splendid frosted-glass windows along two sides of the room, the fine granite-topped bar and the polished mirrors, the worn woodiness of the place and the convivial, slightly upmarket ambience, which appeals to well-heeled local workers who wouldn’t be seen dead in O’Begorrah’s. For the final Irish touch, there are ledges outside to rest your drink on, which will be particularly handy next year when the new smoking law brings Britain into line with Ballybofey.

What to drink?
When St Patrick drove the snakes out of Ireland it seems he got rid of most of the beers as well. Even the best Irish pubs are as renowned for the limited nature of their beer range as for their genial warmth, and the O’Conor Don is no exception. But the beauty of Guinness is that, like the rest of us, it’s at its best when the surroundings are right, and your inner leprechaun will be more than happy with that.

O’Conor Don, 88 Marylebone Lane, London W1 (020-7935 9311)

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