Whitechapel Gallery

"Yoikes," said the Blonde, "I'm being frotted." I’ve never heard her say yoikes before

Ba Shan

My byline photo is pinned up aside St Hollandaisius, patron saint of side orders

AA Gill reviews Langan's Brasserie

Langan’s has become the restaurant Peter Langan set out to murder

AA Gill reviews Fino

Early-evening couples from the local film offices were more interested in eating each other than the squid

The Double Club

The chicken hadn't died of exhaustion; the goat hadn't been butchered by a landmine

AA Gill reviews The Salisbury

Fish probably go through their whole lives thinking they’re called Derek the whale, before discovering at the last moment that, in fact,...

AA Gill reviews Bar Asia

If you have a choice, it’s better to be a predator than the predated, to eat lunch than be lunch

AA Gill reviews The John Dory

This is cod-fisted, fishy-fingered food, made with panache and a big mouth

AA Gill reviews the Daylesford Organic

The raw scallop was a raw scallop, like chewing a dolphin’s cold adenoid

AA Gill reviews The Commander Porterhouse and Oyster Bar

What it needs is a lot more people, possibly colonials, having a noisy and louche time

AA Gill reviews Casa Brindisa

The salted almonds tasted of salt, the toasted broad beans tasted of wood chip

AA Gill reviews Bocca di Lupo

It filled the Blonde’s heart with joy. She loves to pick, and gets inconsolable plate envy

AA Gill reviews Boundary

I started with oeuf en cocotte florentine — when was the last time you ordered that? I haven’t eaten one for 20 years

AA Gill reviews Goodman

Steak is aspiration — the promise of better to come. Steak is capitalism on a plate