AA Gill: Table Talk
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I’ve been overwhelmed by your response to the thing I wrote about the catastrophically catastrophic threat that books pose to the delicately balanced balance of the global world. In case you missed it, I laid bare the horror of unrestrained international publishing, which is responsible for more eco-destruction than all the Chinese power stations built last Thursday. The literate do nothing except consume: crowds of shoppers in Waterstone’s, the cynically titled Amazon – consuming, consuming, consuming. And while we just sit there reading, books are destroying the world.
Some of you have written – on paper – to point out that you’re already starting cooperatives to recycle the dread tomes. The real answer to the dark, satanic book mountain is, of course, to eat them. I’ve been sent a lot of marvellously healthy recipes for books. I’m thinking of compiling a book-recipe recipe book.
From Megan in Pontypridd comes this: “Take one book (250 pages is enough for four people). Peel off the hard cover (don’t ever eat covers – they’re full of chemicals). Soak the pages in warm milk, then mash to dropping consistency. Add 2oz flour, 1 tsp baking powder, 4oz grated suet, a pinch of salt, two eggs, 4oz Fairtrade brown sugar and a handful of sultanas. Spoon into a buttered 2-pint pudding basin, cover and steam for 2 hours. Serve with warm jam.” Megan says her commune loves it. “We particularly like to add a couple of pages of Dylan Thomas. It gives a lovely local flavour.”
Many of you pointed out that eating books was simply treating the symptoms and not the cause. Some suggested starting animal-liberation-style campaigns against bookshops: picketing, burning, intimidating the families of antiquarian bibliophiles – that sort of thing. But the most inventive suggestion was that all wannabe authors should have to qualify to be allowed to write a book. There should be a reality show, like The X Factor, on which writerscompete and cry. The judges would be noted authors such as Jordan and Jose Mourinho.The public would text in their votes, and in the end we’d get a book that would be a guaranteed bestseller. But only one – all the other proposals would disappear into obscurity. There you have it: a properly green answer. Democracy, freedom of speech and care for the planet all in one go.
This week’s restaurant is the grazing floor of Whole Foods Market, the organic department store you’ve been hearing so much about recently. The largesse of this born-again, healthy, feel-my-freshness emporium exposes one of those great rifts between Americans and us. Americans like quantity. The sight of towering displays of fresh food, a carnage of meat, oceans of fish, a sugary cornucopia of buns and breads, and vast wheels of cheeses, fills them with a sense of wellbeing and comfort. The land of unending plenty is what their ancestors went to. That’s why Americans like plates the size of their laps and portions bigger than a neocon’s hubris. Extravagance is their birthright.
We, on the other hand, when confronted with an unfeasible pile of skinned chicken breasts or a decomposing Babel of pilchards, immediately want to know who’s going to eat it all, and what are they going to do with the leftovers? Every one of the dozen people I’ve spoken to who’ve been to this shop worried about the waste. It can’t be given to tramps. Our history of food is scarred by shortages and rationing. We still feel guilty about not finishing our plates. Walking round this perishable glut, I had the distinct, uncomfortable sense that a voice would come over the Tannoy telling me I couldn’t leave until I’d finished all the greens.
The restaurant floor is also very American. That is, it has no coherent design but looks as though it has been constructed in a weekend by competing gangs of shopfitters. The Blonde and I went in the middle of the morning and took an American friend for balance. The dining area isn’t comfortable and it isn’t pretty, but there is a lot of it. Dotted at random round the edges are counters selling sushi, pizza, smoothies, waffles, ice cream and sweet stuff.
I started with a cup of coffee and a muffin. The coffee was made by someone I heard refer to herself as “coffee overseer of the greater New York area”. What she gave me was the universal coffee-flavoured effluvium that you get from Starbucks: thick and unfocused. The muffin was similarly malco, a sweaty bun that was sweet but stupid.
On to the pizza, a hot strip of paste with brightly acetic tomato and splats of congealing mozzarella. If it had come on a paper plate, I really couldn’t have told where one stopped and the other started. This would have been enjoyable only to those people who eat for exercise or companionship.
Next, a sludgy smoothie. The sprightly girl who peered from behind the wheatgrass like a jolly gofer may well have been the vegetable Obergruppenführer for Cincinatti. She told us they’d run out of carrots. As I had just seen Bugs Bunny’s wedding reception downstairs, I thought that was rather lazy.
The Blonde chose the juices, and I got a jug of some thick, vegetative, fruity gruel called Eternal Life Through Suffering or Happy Goat or something. It was as vile as these things invariably are. The imperishable rule of all food whose first reason for existence isn’t pleasure will always be: “A penance in the mouth and a punishment for the colon.”
Finally, there was the sushi, apparently made by the same person who’d done the tables and chairs. Dull fish with coarse flavours – and, worse, rice that was claggy and sullen, like cold rice pudding.
Altogether, the experience here is of eating in a railway concourse in the company of bored, neurotic, overweight people who’ve just had babies they don’t like. Nothing is any better than what you might expect to find in the chilled cabinet of a Tesco petrol station. And, for all the signs extolling right-on principles and faceless, overfamiliar camaraderie, the service is annoyingly slow, the checkout process tortuous, the preparation of the food remedial.
There are framed pictures of green pioneers, just in case you were slow of understanding: barking Mr Kellogg and the woman who started Peta. They look like employees of the month.
In an unused bit of floor, there is a sign that tells us their carbon footprint has been offset by the purchase of windmill futures. It’s stuck on a display of oversized wooden kiddies’ whirligigs, which are made to spin lazily by a discreetly plugged-in electric fan. It is a suitably hypocritical and cynical symbol for the whole place. The best thing that can be said about Whole Foods is that it has put a green stake through any rational belief that organics are anything more than a marketing opportunity for multinational supermarkets.
Whole Foods Market
The Barkers Building, 63–97 Kensington High Street, W8; 020 7368 4500
Mon-Sat, 8am-10pm; Sun, 12-6pm, restaurant from 10am

Five stars: Whole in one; Four stars: Whole lotta love; Three stars: The whole hog; Two stars: Whollier than thou; One star: Whole in the ground
AA Gill is a features writer and restaurant critic for The Sunday Times and he writes regular travel pieces for The Sunday Times Magazine, for which he has won two Glenfiddich Awards
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I admit I found the WF in London horribly impersonal, vast, and somehow not "right". A stark contrast to the gorgeous, big-but-human-scale WF in Mill Valley, CA where I lived before moving to London. Most WFs in the US are integrated into the local community, in contrast to the soul-less emporium in London. The English have a wonderful food heritage that was eclipsed by the wars--that is now re-emerging thankfully, but there is still far too much crap and mediocrity in your average English pub/restaurant . The stuff they put on children's menus is criminal as are the parents who pay for it. However, wonderful food can be had here!! Just buy from small producers, regionally if possible. The guy commenting about American farmers markets is absolutely right, sorry to say. They are worlds apart from those here. They have integrity and quality and don't rip you off. You won't find them in Disneyworld or Vegas, though!
Deb, London,
the quality and variety of food in the Selfridges' or Harrods' food halls is far superior to WF or anything in the states for that matter. i was born in NYC and live in London now...WF is overpriced and hyped-up. At least for the same bill at Selfridges you get quality
Alex, london,
I'm sorry but you have all been duped by Whole foods clever marketing. Every item on display here can be purchased from from UK stores, farmers markets and bulk suppliers and at fraction of the ridiculous prices they charge. As a chef here in London, I buy from exactly the same farms as Whole foods do in the UK.
I applaud Whole Foods for making the produce availiable but places like Villandry and Borough market have done this for years.
Its also ignorant to think that we only eat rubbish over here. The US forced the whole world into eating fast food in the first place. You invented plastic food. Don't be upset with us just because you have at last realised this and are doing everything in your power to shake off the shadow of obesity.
JR, London, UK
It's a myth that you can only get good food in America in expensive restaurants. The US has its chains (some good, some poor), but it also has a lot more good inexpensive restaurants than the UK, far more.
And US Farmers Markets are so superior to UK ones there is hardly any comparison.
Doug, South Normanton, Derbyshire
I live in Manhattan and shop in the Whole Foods on Union Square twice a week,. The food is organic, fresh and tasty. At least with Whole Foods you know you are getting quality, no pesticides, hormone free, cage free, etc etc. You're a xenophobic twat.
I'm now on my way to check out your Kensington Location. I'm sure I'll be less horrified than you were.
Jill , New York, NY, US
hahahahahahahahahah!
Im an American living in Hungary - we just got your glorious Tesco and it is horrible. - I truly miss whole foods.
Hopefully its not wasted on a bunch of ungrateful people like the person who wrote the article. (miss the fresh sockeye salmon most of all!)
dalen, karcag,
Good food - organic or otherwise - is hard to find in London, and the ubiquitous ready-meal is possibly the most horrifying example of the crap that Londoners seem to think of as "acceptable" food. Trying to find good quality meat (and I mean meat that has flavour that hasn't been injected) or vegetables that are fresh and unpackaged is nigh on impossible. Whole Foods, for all that it's reasonably expensive, offers a welcome change from Sainsbury's hell.
I didn't eat in the food hall - in fact, other than the "ready meals" on the ground floor, I didn't even look at it. I did buy £60 worth of fresh (and unpackaged) fruit and vegetables (that had real flavour), meat (again, high quality) and cheese (best 'cheap' brie I've had here). It's not going to replace my weekly market shop, but I'll be making the trek back at least once a month for the sheer range of quality offerings without the crowds and hassle of the markets.
Dee, London,
I used to applaud europeans who were critical of americanism. Now, as i've come to realize, they are usually just tired, ill-informed rants.
It's sad that Mr. Gill went through all of that trouble and the thought, that americans have the same debate about Whole Foods (or Starbucks) amongst themselves, seemed to never have crossed his mind.
Sad too, after all, that the average WF store in the US is 1/4 the size of the London store, the store I frequent is smaller still.
I think, perhaps, that the reson europeans get so bent out of shape about places like WF is because of what it says about them vis-a-vis their incredibly distorted image of americans (yet, in fact, more varied from region-to-region than england from ireland) but no matter, in the mind of every Brit we all wear cowboy hats, big belt buckles, carry guns, and have a southern accent. Unless we live in New York.
Enter the age of the ugly europeans. Your stereotypes are boring. Get over yourselves.
cutesy, Philadelphia, PA / USA
England is light years ahead of the US in terms of food? What planet are you people on? The food in England is horrific - no attention is paid to healthy choices. In the US, not only is the emphasis at Whole Foods on organics, but also on health conscious choices. Everything here is laden with butter and/or deep fried in animal fats. England has not yet embraced the California Cuisine movement (which spread through the US in the '70's ) whereby vegetables and lean proteins and high-fiber carbs are the focus. My stomach is in a sorry state since I've lived here as it is not used to fried and breaded everything. Even chicken and turkey (usually seen in the US as a healthy low fat choice) are breaded!! Eating in England is like stepping into a time warp for Americans. And don't get me started on Chinese food here - also about 30 years behind the times.
That there should even be such a buzz about a store such as Whole Foods is proof of how behind the times England really is.
Mike, London, England
I have visited the Whole Food Store and found it an interesting experience. I dislike supermarkets at the best of times and feel the same about WFS. However they do stock an amazing range of foods and condiments and one can almost buy anything one wants,at a price. They seem to have done a reverse Jack Cohen : 'Pile it high and sell it expensive'. Although I must say that some items were good value and cheaper than other supermarkets.The meat, fish and cheese counters look great and the staff is very helpful and seem to know what they are doing.The prices are high though. This must be the only shop however where you can make your own peanut butter and buy it in small quantities. I bought 47 pence worth of peanut butter and it was delicious ! Where else can one do that ? One can also get complimentary tastings.The restaurant section does not look very appetising but functional and great for families with kids.
Adrian, London ,
It sounds to me like Whole Foods has done what other companies do and change up its offerings so it's no longer quite as it is in the US, and not quite what its target market is in the UK. I think of how great Pret is in London and then look at the menu for the NY stores - where's the duck wrap with hoisin sauce and the perfect little crawfish salad? Instead the menu is more American. Maybe that's great for some, but when I go somewhere like Pret or even Whole Foods I'm looking for it to be as I expect. Whole Foods in the US isn't huge portions and Stella Artois, and they don't make those disgusting wheatgrass drinks that City folks have been known to knock back. I'm sure WF will end up rating something more acceptably British soon enough.
Heidi, Denver, CO
I have heard so many good things about the New York Whole Foods Market that I am deeply suspicious that we are not comparing like with like. I visited the Kensington shop last Friday and was deeply disappointed. There was an almost complete lack of organic food. If I wanted air-freighted chemically produced fruit & veg I would shop in Tesco - and I think even they have more organic meat. Tropicana in the chiller cabinet, white non-organic rice, a chiller cabinet full of industrially-produced larger (Stella anyone?!), the list goes on, but I'm trying to forget. On the plus side, I had no problems with queuing. I think shoppers must have gone to M&S. The food court floor was so empty it was intimidating so I went to Pret. They are every bit as natural as Whole Foods Market anyway. I love health food shops, but can't see the point of this one: even the average supermarkets are as good, and the good supermarkets (eg Waitrose) are much better.
Lorna, Kingston, England
Such a disappointing store after the hype promised so much. Wholefoods may develop a niche in affluent central London, but I feel that it will struggle in the "real" UK.
Martin, London, UK
I'm sure Whole Foods in the states is good, as one of Whole Foods' competitors here in the UK, I can say that they have done some things very, very well.
The bread, cheese, meat, fish and wine sections are top notch, well presented, and (only when staffed by the Americans who moved over here for it) fantastically friendly.
The packaged sweets and foods are very dated and outmoded by British standards, the décor quality is cheap, the tables upstairs are very much railway station pieces, but the wow factor of the genuinely ~good~ parts of the store does win points back.
The implimentation has been poor, but then this is WF's first big leap across the pond in this format, so they have plenty of time to change things around and get it together in those areas that they aren't perfect.
Their main problem is that they rely on the willingness to serve others that characterises many American staff (though sometimes it gets a bit too friendly for us) that we Brits are awful at.
Jamie, London,
The four wines stocked by Tesco and recommended by Jane MacQuitty in her "25 Best Wines Under £20" do not appear to be available on their direct website or on the shelves of the four stores which I have searched in Suffolk.
Could this be to do with their 30% "off" any six wines offer which expires on Sunday 8 July 2007 by any chance??? Will they be back "in stock" next week I wonder?
Peter Dowson, Stowmarket,
I once again have to laugh. Americans are reading the London Times voraciously and writing comments to the editors... because the NYT and LA Times have become more American than the London Times. It's just fun, laughable. Reality. I love the Times, and I love London.
My WF store in Wynnewooed PA is well run, keeps the check out moving, and competes well with our other larger grocery stores. We who could afford to have been eating as well as the French since we employed our first French cook. This labelling of nationalities is silly. "Brits" generally enjoy nothing that the City enjoys. Texas has almost nothing in common with Boston. Keep the epithets local, please.
Alan, Wynnewood, PA USA
Are we Americans capable of taking criticism from anybody, or performing self-examination, at all?
Whole Foods, Starbucks, abominations! The poorest people in Italy eat better that the most affluent Americans. As long as we refuse to face this, there will be no improvement.
Worse, we are exporting our mediocre standards. As a protest to which export the above article did a wonderful, hilarious, and spot-on job.
Teye, Austin, TX
Food portions in US are inordinately large. You have to go to really very good restaurant to get decent food otherwise everything tastes like cardboard in your standard places...don't even get me started about starbucks.... how dare they call it coffee it is gunk...
And tea in starbucks .... my lord it is utter rubbish!!
P Green, London,
"I think all right thinking people are wrong." - M. Python
Do try the moderately priced WF 365 label Milk Chocolate bars. I give them 5 stars.
H. Richardson, Austin, TX
Are British people capable of discussing anything American without sneering?
Matt, Northampton, Massachusetts, USA
I would argue that there is nothing larger than a neocon's hubris, but otherwise spot on! Everything is bigger in America but the sense of humour! By going upscale and green, supermarkets are exploiting a niche and trying to excape the pathetic profit margins in food retailing.
Steve McCornack, Dayton, Ohio
This review is a pot calling the kettle black.
Mr. Taco, Austin, Texas
Whole foods is "high end" here in the USA too. Most of us would go broke if we shopped there regularly. The store you should have in the UK is Trader Joe's where the prices are reasonable to cheap, focus on organic and natural food and dispenses with the pretense.
AA Gill is right about the emphasis here in the US on large servings, though the Whole Foods he visited sounds like it serves the worst food of any in the chain. Perhaps because it is in the England??? Just a joke. Monsieur Gill does seem to be a bit ott anti-american just for the sake of it.
Fionula, the US "not noted globally for its cuisine"? What have you ever eaten? Mickie D's? Dominos?
LOL
celticgods, new york city, usa
Whole Foods Hubris
London? Whole Foods you are clueless. Europeans and Britons have a completely different approach to food politics.
If only you knew the original Whole Foods store here in Austin, TX. It was a cozy little store with weird Austin hippies. Ok well those days are definitely gone and the new corporate head quarters here is a nice enough place I suppose.
Ironically, however, when I lived in Germany I would have loved a Whole Foods in my area. The produce in the stores was terrible.
alan, Austin, TX, USA
Whole foods in the USA is expensive but good quality (I loved Fairways when in NYC), but I'd take Waitrose or M&S any day, if they were here. WF is the only place in Albuquerque I can get a decent range of cheese (for a price) now do you want to guess where the good cheese comes from, here is a hint (anywhere but the USA).
P
Paul, Albuquerque, USA
Whole pay cheque indeed, Whole Foods is well known for being grossly overpriced. As a European in the US I was pleasantly surprised to find most US supermarkets well stocked with a variety of good quality foods, then someone recommended that I visit Whole Foods. I wouldn't say that my reaction to it was as extreme as Mr Gill's, but I don't think that its high prices are justified when compared to other US supermarkets like Stop and Shop and Waldbaums (think Tescos and Sainsburys). I think it is all just a ploy by the marketing department of Whole Foods to eek a bit more out of their profit margin potential.
If he is looking for the sort of wholesome, home made experience I think he is looking for, then I think he should take a trip across the Irish Sea to the Avoca Handweavers flagship shop in Dublin, or their HQ in County Wicklow. Once he gets past all the mohair rugs he should find a decent scone and cup of coffee, he won't find any sweaty muffins there!
Mrs G, Northport, Long Island, New York
Which transatlantic arrival do you think is more overblown - Whole Foods in the UK, or Wagamama in Boston? :)
Diana, Boston, USA
Mr. Gill sounds bitter. WF offers the highest quality food and a great shopping experience. I have found the company true to its stated mission, which is refreshingly positive.
James, London, UK
Carolyn - American and Scottish, unlucky!
Richard, leeds, UK
Please. As an American living in the London (i will leave the rest of the country out because it is lovely) I have noticed a tendency to make (about london) everything overblown. Take Gordon Ramsay - compared to his French brothers and sisters, he is mediocre at best. And compared to American chef's like Thomas Kellner - he doesn't hold a candle. But he has found the way to a londoner's heart - make it expensive and heap on the abuse - always the way to a public school pupil's heart.
Regarding AA Gill's review of Whole Foods and his revulsion at the groaning tables of fresh fish, meat and veg, I have a question: Have you ever been to a public market in Italy or Spain? The displays are to say, "dramatic".
No one is forcing anyone to shop at Whole Foods, but having lived in the neighborhood I am willing to bet that they will throttle the likes of Waitrose & Sainsburys.
Ron P., London, UK
Spot on Mr Gill. The majority of Whole Foods stock is not actually organic, despite the greedy markups. For that matter, the non-organic food one finds in local farmer markets around us is much tastier and fresher than the organic food, which costs more to produce because of losses to insects and is often shipped from much further away.
ian, Frederick, MD USA
I'm with Mr. Cunard, although I reside here in the states, CA to be exact, I often visit and rely upon "health food stores", for my weekly grocery list. I find Whole Foods very high-end and if I was to shop there exclusively, I would go bankrupt. However, because I do love good, clean, organic "real food", I often make the statement "when my cash flow runs over, I will do almost all of my food shopping at Whole Foods. By the way,
some expressions never lose there punch e.g. "English Pride"!
This AA guy's an obvious prize fighter.
Ta Ta
Lisa
Lisa Webb, Moorpark, CA
Utter Twaddle
Paul Ward, Witchford, Ely, UK/Cambridgeshire
How bizarre that Americans should think an English person would be jealous because he has made a critique of an American product!
I think it is fair to say that America is not globally noted for its cuisine. I don't think we Brits are particularly well known for our grub either, but just to set the record straight we have produced a few well known cookery authors: Mrs Beeton, Katie Stewart, Delia Smith & Prue Leith to name but a very, very few.
Extraordinary that some would think we might not be ready for Whole Foods either, given that every high street features Holland & Barrett & even Tesco are doing organic food boxes.
AA Gill, went, he sampled & he didn't like. Take it on the chin friends from over the pond!
Fionula, London, UK
A generalization sure, but Japanese are thin, Americans are obese, and Brits fall into the, "Who ate all the pies?" category. You are what you eat. A lesson to be drawn here for those with the wit to see beyond their nose.
Andrew Milner, Karuizawa, Nagano
As an European living in the U.S. I feel totally ambiguous about Whole Foods. One one hand I am happy to be able to shop at a place like it since WF changed the grocery scene for the better. On the other hand it just fails to meet the standards of organic food I was used to in Europe. Produce is rarely fresh and they ship fish, water etc . from al over the world (anybody talking green here?).
Bottom line: Europeans should stick to their own standards and not go for the US frenzy.
Simone Ott Caduff, Pasadena, California
Great Article AA. You're the best critic in the news & I've been reading your TV criticism since you started. I couldn't agree more about Whole Foods. I've lived in Boston for 2 years & I'm surrounded by them.
Everyone else is excited but coming from London & Europe they don't seem that special to me. One thing you didn't mention is how over-priced they are. My wife and I call them 'Whole Paycheck'!
Rudy E Parker, Cambridge, USA
Wonderful! Just wonderful! The various reactions to this article from either side of the pond speak volumes about us. I don't think the "special realtionship" has never been more misunderstood. I think only chriski has really grasped reality here - but what a great insight into our social cultures...
Teddy Pinkerton, London, UK
I can't think why Mr G bothers to review anything American since he obviously hates the USA - last August, he wrote "America has a particularly intimate relationship with proprietary processed food, and these recipes were as bizarre, touching, occasionally delicious but mostly palate-scrapingly disgusting as the States itself." If this country is so disgusting, why torture himself - and us - with his loathsome opinions? As a British citizen resident here, I've often disagreed with Americans who say 'we won the war for you' but I'm coming around to that way of thinking. Envy never did anyone any good and it's time he accepted that America IS the greatest power in the world despite the fact that once there was a British Empire, the largest of its kind. But that was then and now is now. So button up, AA!
David Cunard, Los Angeles,
I want to move to High Street Ken just to be near Whole Foods - everything is so fresh. The service in the cafteteria IS slow and I wasn't mad about having to line up at one counter for my grub and then having to line up at another counter for my cup of tea. But, I loved the food so didn't mind the suffering!
Frances , London , UK
Mr Gill I can assure you that it is absolutely OK that you never feel pressed to go in there again. Breathe easy.
Chris Hartridge, FARNHAM, SURREY
We English have gone so long without any good food that we obviously can't recognise it when we see it. I do agree that there is a complete lack of chip butties and bake bean rounders but the food that is on offer is extremely varied and good quality. The beek isn't as good as in the Whole Foods in the US but then it's English beef and not American. Of course to open a food shop in a country of people that take tinned paella to Spain is a bit of a challenge.
Brenda, Hertfordshire
Brenda Stein, St Albans,
This is a sad fact that the eating establishments on offer for a quick cuppa and snack are all essentially the same cardboard cut outs decorated with staff that marginally more cardboard than the buns.
Bring back tearooms!
Mr Gill, your column makes me smile every time. All the best to yourself and the Blonde.
Sarah Goode, Leicestershire, England
sorry mates, after reading a few more of Gill's articles I had a flashback of brit humourThank god. I travel for work and was laughing so loudly-after I posted the thing about world foods I felt like a wally. (quote me on that...)
Your big plate chicken nugget mate in Indiana cheers, Robert
robert, new albany, Indiana US of A
AA Gill's biased review is the one that deserves one star. People who shop at Whole Foods Market know better.
Andre, California, USA
Enough with the american bashing. I was a frequent whole foods shopper when I lived in the US. The ceiling-high stacks of vegetables (which of course you consider "wasteful") are usually gone by the afternoon - because Americans actually buy healthy foods that aren't breaded and deep-fried. We don't stop and stare at piles of vegetables like they had landed from Mars as you people do.
Also to criticize the layout of the store as "American" is totally off-base. Our supermarkets are so much better organized than UK ones, especially our Whole Foods. The Kensington branch is VERY poorly laid out, which is why I thought it differed from the US ones.
The check out area could only have been designed by the British - disorganized, chaos and mayhem. No supermarket in the US could ver have been designed so poorly. (What do you expect from a country where there are apparently no fire codes or handicapped codes in building).
Sherwood O'Neill, London, England
We call "Whole Foods" the "Whole Paycheck" store, as well. I patronize our local Farmers Market, where I can buy locally grown produce, and usually talk to the individual who picked it the day before.
And Ruki, I don't consider my quality of life to be dire at all. I know from friends who have traveled there that parts of London are not safe after dark--as is the case in most large cities. There are also thousands of American cities where one is perfectly safe most any time of day, same as in Britain. I don't drive a gas guzzler, either. I drive an Escort and if I could afford a hybrid, I'd get one. So lose that all-superior attitude, all right? No place is perfect.
As for Mr. Gill, I can take some "sartorial ribbing" about my country and about Americans. However, I don't like the subtle inference from him and others here that Americans should simply all commit suicide and rid the world of our foul, overweight presence. What kind of world are we creating when we feel that way?
Chicky, Decatur, Alabama, USA
Oh, so American ancestors fought a civil war.
So what, Einstein?
Europe has the most violent history of any continent in the world, Sparky, including civil wars and beheading people.
And how dare you Europeans try to lump all Americans in with the elitist, smug, arrogant, liberal, Hollywood, California, trash that you support with your entertainment buying habits? The smug yuppies who frequent these places and lack any grasp of real issues have more in common with you than they do average Americans.
If you want to be submissive in the face of this Californian invasion of your continent, then next time you're invaded, you're on your own.
Michael Spurlock, Missoula, MT
Oh please. All you whinging Americans... if you can't stand the heat you know what to do. And Veronica you too could do with getting a life, why not do the environment and yourself a favour and just keep your love for Mr Gill online rather than reading on line and in paper...
But I do totally agree with some comments, let's keep our love and shopping local and try and bring back the local good quality store and produce.
Mary Carthew, London, UK
We eat to much, you have bad teeth! Damn we must be an ugly lot!
Lance, Denver, USA
A splendid idea. I have already started my eco-crusade by boycotting any and all books written by Jeremy Clarkson.
This has the added benefit of not only saving the forests, but reducing the income of Mr C. This means he will then need to drive smaller, more economical cars and not the massive engined carbon-farters which he prefers.
A double eco-whammy.
Roy Ellor, Salford, UK
Now, now everyone... as a yank who lived in the UK for three years I can appreciate Mr. Gill's slightly lackluster impression of Whole Foods. I try (with varying success) to stick with the small guy down the block. I understand foods that are 'organic' or 'free range' cost more-simple market math(s). Certainly the idea of foods void of chemicals is not a bad one (ahem, lawmakers??). One thing I noticed when returning to the States was the difference in chicken fillet sizes. Pumped full of hormones, most store bought chicken parts here dwarf their feathered EU friends. Not so tasty. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.
The concept of selling 'cleaner' food is a good thing but goes off when cut-throat corporate tactics and cheesy decor are thrown in. Bottom line? We shouldn't need a 'Whole Foods' on either side of the pond to find 'healthy' market grub. Incidentally AA, my plate is pretty big-otherwise the chicken nuggets wouldn't fit...
Robert Lenfert, New Albany, Indiana USA
I agree with Joshua, Oxford, UK. You obviously don't like the fact that the store is American owned. You apparently have been oppressed under socialism for too long and don't know what to think when given numerous items to choose from in front of you. There is a world outside of London, ya know. Whole Foods' massive choices should be viewed with an open mind, a willing heart, and an experimental palate. The amount of choices has nothing to do with large dinner plates and everything to do with choices void of the limits you have so long been under. You criticize the food, yet where are the numerous cookbooks packed full of British food for the world to experience your discriminating cuisine? I have yet to find one to be tempted by your cuisine, uhh, maybe because there aren't any books. Believe me, I being 50% Scottish have looked and continue to look wherever cookbooks are sold so that I may expose my children to the food of my heritage.
Carolyn, San Diego, USA
Whole Foods is not always about sustainable local agriculture, though they use this for press. However, some organic produce is better than no organic produce.
As for the vast lands of food, has Mr. Gill never been to Harrod's Food Court?
dian, NYC,
Wake up and smell the coffee Americans- learn to take some constructive criticism and a dab of sartorial humour. Your country is 231 years old, your ancestors had a civil war with each other- the majority of whom were of European descent. You are young, naive and impetuous, not only when it comes to important topics like war but also when it comes to trivial topics such as food, wine, coffee and even an organic food shop.
How could Europe be jealous with its thousands of years of culture, history, development, ability to handle argument and, yes incredible to imagine even the French doing so, but its ability to dabble in a bout of self-deprecating humour.
chriski, manchester,
I only know the one in Columbus Circle, it came highly recommended by a NY law prof and what I remember were the queues of single people with one basket of that evening's deli dinner snaking right round the shop waiting to pay at the till.
No better than Waitrose -just bigger. Certainly not in the league of Selfridges or Harrod food halls
J, Brussels,
I'll join the chorus here....it's pretty obvious that you didn't like the place or the nationality of the owners long before you entered the store.
While I usually take out a large loan before going to one when I'm home in the states, the food has always been top notch and the quality of the organic and natural veggies has always been excellant.
After reading your piece, I wondered if I had gone to the same store as you, so I went down again to make sure. Apparently you were somewhere else, because I couldn't find anything as bad as you described.
By the way, if the service is poor or slow....don't blame us Yanks or the organic or natural foods, blame the British help!!
Joshua, Oxford, UK
John Whiting is right. Whole Foods is buying out/killing our local Wild Oats store to my great disgust. Apparently we can forget about choice. Some people might not see much difference between the two chains, but I find Wild Oats much more down to earth, and less obnoxiously self-satisfied.
Furthermore, WF has acted in a WalMartian fashion towards some of its suppliers, acting in such a way as to put small farmers out of business, essentially, because the small farmers produce foie gras as well as other poultry products. Like WalMart suppliers, WF suppliers can't always afford to buck any pressure from WF to do exactly what the 500lb gorilla wants. Vile.
Niente, East Coast America,
An Brit criticizing American food, now that's a good one. When did you start the comedy section?
Paul, Honolulu, USA
Yes, but I went to Wholefoods in Houston, Texas. It's nothing special except when it's gimmicky. We complain about our food here in the UK but, oh boy, it's not as bad as American food. Generally the quality of life is dire in the States. You're all being had. No, we're not jealous. I can get better, fresher food on my local high street in London. And I can stroll there - don't need the gas guzzler and I'm not scared of anyone I meet on the way. And as for when I am in my place in Istanbul - oh, most Americans can only fantasize about the taste and quality of food there..... . And how civil the street life is. In your dreams! And if you don't believe us, guys, ask an American who's been there.
Ruki, London and Istanbul,
Thank God for the rational Mr. Gill.
Valerie Printemps, New York City, NY, USA
First post is quite right. Europe is light years ahead of the US as regards food culture (even the old UK is the odd light year ahead, it seems) and really the only reaction to this enterprise I can muster is "so what?". I can get better stuff in a variety of places around town, so why would I bother with this?
Mark Temple, Oxford, UK
Aah â the typical British disdain for trying too hard. I can see why another American success like Whole Foods would annoy you...
Joan, new york, NY
As an american who treasures the wealth of foods available here, I find giant markets like the one reviewed to be a jack of all trades and a master of none, just like it is on this side of the pond. This is a very tough time to be a "proud american", and a corporate enterprise like this on your shores does nothing to assuage these feelings. On behalf of many americans who enjoy diversity of foods, i apologize and hope you try not to hold it against us. As far as pizza, sushi and a nice cup of java, there are ways to get one here, but you probably know that already.
Steven, NJ
Steven Albert, cinnaminson, usa
"Americans like plates the size of their laps." It seems perfectly fair and reasonable to sum up all three hundred million of us so simply. I can only assume that all English people are tripe-eating, drunken football hooligans.
Peter Hoffman, St. Louis, MO
I love the way that Americans take any kind of criticism so personally. A critique of a food store restaurant has them up in frenzied, jingoistic arms. Laughable.....
Craig Griffiths, Luxembourg,
John Roberts, the English are ready for the Whole Foods concept. A concept that has in fact it has been about in London for a long time now in other guises, Planet Organic in Westbourne Grove has been about for over 10 years.
The problem it seems with Whole Foods is that most visitors to the store are coming to the same conclusion, all style, no substance. It is impossible to get any firm answer whether certain products are Organic or not, Queing for over 30 minutes to pay for your groceries is a complete sham too.
Blake Rine, London,
Gill is indeed the mouthpiece of the bilious, but here he nevertheless speaks truth. Whole Foods have turned into a megaproducer/consumer just like the firms they set out to improve upon. In America they're attempting to buy their competitor, Wild Oats, with the intention of closing the shops within a mile of their own. The policy was confirmed in a Guardian interview:
'Residents have also complained about Whole Foods' decision to close the nearby Fresh & Wild, forcibly driving residents to the new shop. "That's the tactic we employ in America, so we employ it here," said Mr Sud, with an unwavering grin, surveying the crowds.'
John Whiting, London,
Living here in pretty much backwoods Kentucky it may be 10 years before we get a store of this type close by. It sounds healthy, novel, and an attempt to serve market demand. What bothers me is the author's shot at Americans. No matter what the fare, I don't believe extravagance is our birthright. I believe its the proof that our system works.
Murph, Madisonville, USA/KY
I was at Whole Foods in Kensington just last week. I was in London on holiday and went out of my way to visit, as I quite like WF here in the US.
It is a large space, with a very unimpressive decor. As Mr. Gill mentions, it is heaped with large displays of food, yet it is not quite as amazing as I had hoped. It pales in comparison to the food halls at Harrods, Selfridges or Harvey Nicks. I was far happier on a shopping trip to Tesco in Twickenham. Americans must realize that the British (and European) palate and concept of food is far ahead of ours.
I can see why neither Mr. Gill nor the Brits are overwhelmed by Whole Foods. In this case, I must agree.
Carmen, Nashville,
At last someone speaks the truth....
The best thing that can be said about Whole Foods is that it has put a green stake through any rational belief that organics are anything more than a marketing opportunity for multinational supermarkets...
The Sunday Times is worth it's price (although I read free online) for AA Gill alone!
Veronica, London,
My first trip to WholeFoods was in 2005 at their Boston branch. It was a GREAT experience then but now there are similar choices EVERYWHERE. I have not been to the S Kensington store but look forward to that EXPERIENCE of buying good food! I think this is what this company is aiming for.
Tay, Bath, UK
A little jealous, are we?
Claudia , Atlanta, USa
Hippy food. Cast off your muslin shirt and velvet loons, burn your sandals, have a shave, stand closer to the soap and go out for a meal.
Steak oozing blood, perfectly cooked lobster, fresh vegetables that haven't been prepared with a blender by a person called Sky or Leaf. Fresh salmon, well-hung game, and stodgy comfort puddings.
It might not clean your colon out, or save the otters/whales/tree huggers, but it will taste nice.
Richard Martin, Sheffield,
In San Francisco Wholefoods sells incredibly good and wholesome food. The one on California where I shop is not enormous but human-sized and oh! the quality of the fresh fish, meat, fruit and veg and the dairy and cheeses and bread and well, just everything - including healthy freshly prepared and cooked takeaway meals. The Barkers building emporiumsounds too big and frankly the English just are not ready for WholeFoods. And AA Gill,isn't the right person to review it, either. Stick to being offensive about rerstaurants, AA - that's your forte, my good man!!
John Roberts, San Francisco, California
So you don't care for Whole Foods or Americans somehow both will manage to do pretty well without you. In New Orleans LA it is known as Whole Paycheck as the prices are high. The stores are beautiful and most of the food is very good. You seem to have made up your mind to dislike it before you darkend the door.
K. Winch, Atlanta Georgia , U. S. of A.
Gosh, I guess you didnt like it then!
But organics are not a marketing opportunity for multinational supermarkets, rather they are a cleaner, safer, saner and more generous way to grow, shop, eat and live, And Whole Foods Market has been integral to the organic movement.
Cancer is the number one disease killer of children in the developed world. Studies (and common sense) suggest this may well have something to do with pioson dropped on our food and water supply. Pesticides, designed to kill, do not have an off switch. It's time to clean up our acts and our plates. The next generation is counting on us.
lynda Fassa, tarrytown, NY