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Saturday July 11, 2009
Giles Coren reviews Dolada, 13 Albemarle Street, London W1
Is it a restaurant? Is it a bistro? Is it a jazz bar? Is it a Holiday Inn reception lobby? Coren visits twice to figure out
A porcine plasma sandwich on easyJet and new Leon-style Lebanese in Central London
It’s a good place to loll with a pal in the cool basement while the pavement swelters above
Very good, inexpensive, home-style Georgian cooking in Hackney, east London
The first Test of summer, and a premium burger in my hand... But it felt strangely cold, and hard
I’m reviewing yesterday’s breakfast, lunch and dinner. So you can see how the kitchenless live
Trout with samphire, a crayfish and prawn salad, and not a single builder in sight
Friendly Japanese staff, super fresh food and a vegetarian (ish) selection leave our critic feeling virtuous and sated
24 Romilly Street, London W1
The venerated hotel is about to have its tenth anniversary. But it's not just the rooms that are dreamy, says the critic
How very 2009 of this place, how very Hoxton, how very recessionista, to substitute "asparagus" for "kale". Stealth luxur
It’s basically just a tanked cellar, softened by some lattice-work, and I guess if you’re severely claustrophobic, then you might feel...
We have been ordering champagne all these years simply because if we don’t, it might look like we can’t afford it
The oyster bar offers smaller dishes, rather than the full menu at the original restaurant, along with plenty of theatre
Just the meal to put inside you before heading back to a four-poster hotel bed with a bagful of sex toys and... falling straight to sleep
Two Michelin stars within a brisk walk of each other is no small matter in a county where, since Druids first sat down to a bowl of thistles
The Times critic visited the French restaurant ready to rip it to shreds. So did it measure down to his expectations?
This once great Winchester institution has turned it into a pub where even the ham sandwiches are terrible
There was time between the starters and the mains to wonder whether my brill or an upturn in the housing market would come first
A Caribbean takeaway in Stamford Hill outranks a Ramsay restaurant during Giles's visit to get his car MOT'ed
Giles Coren has been a columnist for The Times since 1999. He began as a feature writer before becoming restaurant critic in 2001. His reviews appear in The Times Magazine on Saturdays
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