Giles Coren
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There are two things in the world over which I think it is important to take great care: food and spelling. Which is why my recent trip to Jamaica was spoilt utterly in its first, tender hours by one of Britain’s most fêted living novelists.
I was 35,000 feet over the Atlantic, rushing towards the Caribbean with a grotesque Gatwick Garfunkel’s breakfast festering inside me (at £50 for three people I just don’t see why their breakfasts have to be pre-cooked hours before and served lukewarm just because it’s an airport – it’s not as if they’re in the air or anything) and had just cracked open a spanking fresh copy of Amsterdam by Ian McEwan, of whom I am a fan.
Not a slobbering, drooling, yearn-to-lick-his-naked-knees sort of fan, as I am of, say, John Updike or J.M. Coetzee (or, indeed, now that I’m thinking of the knee-licking thing, Scarlett Johansson), because he’s not that sort of writer. He’s the sort of writer who does crisp sentences, researches things thoroughly, holds off one or two big facts till the end to create a bit of suspense and sometimes notices things about the world that hadn’t occurred to me.
So I’m a usually-take-one-on-holiday sort of fan. And this time I had taken Amsterdam, which I think is the one that won the Booker Prize and at 200-odd pages was perfect for a transatlantic flight (taking into account breaks for two meals and a much-awaited Ben Affleck/Bob Hoskins vehicle showing on a screen the size of a fag packet, with a terrible crackle in one earpiece, and nothing in the other).
It begins with a woman called Molly experiencing some sort of non-specific brain degeneration. McEwan lists the words that begin to fail her as the disease grips: “parliament, chemistry, propeller”… We focus in on the words, relishing our luck in being able to grasp them fully, “bed, cream, mirror…”, McEwan selecting the words so thoughtfully for aural resonance and bourgeois mundanity: “acanthus” and then, “bresaiola…”.
Bresaiola? Aaaaaaaaaaaaargh! You fool! You fool! It’s “bresaola”. There’s no “i” in it. Now I can’t read your book. Not with a spelling mistake on the first page. Not when “bresaola” is a bit of a knobby word to have chosen anyway. I thought of McEwan on a Tuscan holiday, munching on a slice of air-dried beef and saying to his host (Umberto Eco? Peter Mayle?) “Mm, this is yummy, what do you call it?” and being told “bresaola” and hearing “bresaiola”, and mouthing it to himself and planning to put it in his next book. And not bothering to look it up!
And then none of the muppets at his publisher, Vintage, looked it up either. And it was still there in what must be the tenth or eleventh reprint, maybe more.
Furthermore, I happen to know that McEwan is very close friends with Fay Maschler, the great Evening Standard restaurant critic. I’ve seen them eating together many times. Did she not tell him about “bresaola”? Surely she has read her friend’s book? Was she too polite to say? Or did she, like me, hurl it to the floor in a fury and watch old episodes of Friends until she landed in Kingston?
And then what did she eat when she got there? Because I’m buggered if I found a mouthful worth swallowing in ten days, apart from the cool Red Stripe in a stubby brown bottle that the hotel driver gave me in the car.
The hotel – I won’t name it, it’s not fair, they were nice people – was at the gag-reflex end of expensive (£500 per person per night) but turned out to be just bland international posh: aircon, wi-fi, staff in gloves, tiny private beach next door to a Sandals resort from which fat little accountants in fluorescent lifejackets set off every five minutes on screeching jet skis, yelling “yippee!” as they buzzed snorkellers.
And the food was just dire. The fish was all salmon, cod and sea bass. “Where do you get it from?” I asked the general manager. “Scotland,” he said proudly. Pleasing though it was to think my lunch and I had travelled exactly the same distance to be here (9,200 miles between us), I had noticed lots of lovely fresh fish – snappers, groupers, little seahorses that come up lovely if you batter them whole like whitebait – in the sea where I had been swimming not 20 minutes before. Did they not serve any of those?
Alas, said the manager, the fishermen bring the fish to market very early in the morning, and it goes very quickly.
Giles Coren has been a columnist for The Times since 1999. He began as a feature writer before becoming restaurant critic in 2001. His reviews appear in The Times Magazine on Saturdays
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Why didn't you leave the expensive hotel and try local food ? Next time, stay at Mockingbird Hill Villa outside Montego Bay. The Cook (formerly with Lord Rotheremere) is extraordinary. In 3 weeks I had a different dinner dish every night. All delicious, local food. www.mockingbirdhillvilla.com
Nigel, San Diego, California
On the south side of the island, MarBlue in Treasure Beach has one of the best gourmet restaurants in the Caribbean. Plus seafront villas, like Doubloon Villa, which cost a fraction of those on the north side. Freshly-caught fish cooked for you in the middle of sea at Pelican Bar. You missed out!
Judy, Lichfield, England
As a restaurant owner in Jamaica all I can say is that no one told you where to go to get fabulous food in Jamaica, or perhaps you didn't do enough research and were happy enough to stay in the nameless hotel, which by description and price everyone knows which it is. Suggested reading: "Nyam Jamaica" by Rosemary Parkinson. This book should tell you everything you wanted to know about good food (from classy to roadside) in Jamaica. Oh and by the way, as a Jamaican I find the illustration at the start of your article absolutely offensive, we're in 2008, not 1950. Come on Times do better than that!
Barbara, Port Antonio, Jamaica
I think you have pretty much hit the nail on the head. In two years I have not had a meal where everything was perfect. You can get decent jerk occassionally, but it is inconsistent minute to minute and day to day.
And lets not get started on the availability of wine....
Sean, Kingston, Jamiaca
You might just want to save yourself the money - you probably could have written this article without having gone anywhere.
John Gordon, London, England
Ah Tim, Malaysia, the food lovers paradise...and I have been able to get all the local fish and produce I want, even when I went high-end. Of course it was always mainland or East Coast islands.
No way I would go all those miles and book to eat in a hotel all the time, regardless of how "luxurious" it might be. Serves one right.
I have never been to Jamaica, but I really doubt an entire country can be so scarce as described by GC. It really feels like he was looking for it. Doesn't seem to have bothered much. Of course, he is free to criticise the hotel's cooking, but to extend it to the entire island!!
mary b., chester,
This is the most outrageous thing I've ever read!
A food critic goes on a 15 thousand pound trip to Jamaica, an Island World -famous for its culinary arts, eats the bland Westernized fare at his hotel and from one random street vendor - then acts as if this represents the Jamaican food experience and expects to be taken seriously? This is too absurd for words.
Times Online Editors - if you want to send another food critic on a Jamaican jaunt, my CV is at the ready!
Fu Long, Amsterdam,
I was born and raised in Jamaica, and quite frankly I am outraged by your belittling of the island's cuisine> Jamaican food is one of the most delightful and exquiste tasting food you can come across. You could not have expected to savor the richness of the island's fare by staying bottled up in some hotel in who know where! Had you bothered to venture to proper restaurants on the island or even ask a local where to go, you would have had a completely different idea. Our food is very different but then again if you don't have an open mind to the experience then you will only get out of it, what you put in it. Next time if you are going to critque a country's cuisine, then I suggest you do proper research and footwork and find the food, at least I thought that is what a professional critc would have done! Especially if you are going to put it in the Times!
Yolanda Mullings, Brooklyn, New York
Next time stay at a villa. One recommendation is the villas at Silver Sands approximately 45 minutes from Montego Bay airport. There you can select freshly caught fish from the fisherman's beach next door and have it prepared by your personal villa staff. Also don't be afraid to try the jerk pork, chicken or fish from the street side vendors. The idea of buying your lunch from the street may seem a bit troubling but I guarantee you will enjoy. Otherwise the jerk shacks such as Scotchies or Pork Pit, as well as the numerous across the island will delight your palates. Believe me, next to Italy, Jamaica has the best food on the planet. The key is to get out of the hotel and ask the locals.
Alex Williams, Gaithersburg, Maryland
"Xander?" I assume that's because, like so many of us, he's given up the Ale for January, rather than because he's up himself?
Paul, London,
How sad you had such a plastic packaged holiday in Jamaica. The island is the most beautiful, diverse, fascinating and creative island in the world but, judging by the exhorbitant price, you were obviously ripped off. Next time try something like Russell Villas near Montego Bay where a well trained staff will shop for you and cook proper Jamaican fare. The real Jamaica lies well away from the all-inclusive, roped-in luxury hotels.
Richard, Richmond, Va, USA
Fancy going to Jamaica and ordering a cheeseburger!!
the food there is fantastic...you should have taken the trouble to have a proper look.
steve rice, bristol, uk
As a Jamaican I definitely know that there are amazing dining destinations within the island. I am terribly sorry that you had such an awful experience. I'm left speechless and really wanting to get you your money back!!
Vaughn Stafford Gray, Toronto, Canada
I'm sorry but of all the Caribbeam islands that I have been to, no one does food like the Jamaicans. Barbados does food for tourists. I'm sorry but if you want to taste food like you're dining at The Ivy then stay in England.
I'll admit the street food can be a bit hit and miss but it's a life style that Jamaican's are proud of. However, I have stayed everywhere in Jamaica from Roundhill, Half Moon and all the Sandals including some great restaurants and like I say the food is the best of all the islands. No jazzes up versions for the tourists - you sit there and suck the meat off your curry goat with the rest of them.
B Carr, London, UK
I'm with you on the Caribbean, St Martin wasn't much better bar they served the frozen stuff with a French accent. The best food/snorkelling combo I've ever come across (apart from a pasty in Ilfracombe when I was ten and my criteria less stringent) is Soneva Fushi in the Maldives. No flash, no jet-skis - just fresh grown salads, fish from the sea - sashimi or cooked - curries made up in front of you - even freshly made pizza. Oh yes, and fish like the ones in 'Finding Nemo' whenever you put your head in the water. It's some way from west London, but, as Michelin used to say, it 'merite le detour'. If I could afford it, I'd go back every year.
Shaun Skelly, London,
I'm as fussy about Italy and geography as you are about spelling and food.
How would Ian McEwan be able to eat bresaola on a Tuscan holiday? If he ate anywhere half-decent in that region they wouldn't have it on the menu.
William Dunn, Beijing, China
How I sympathise with you Giles. We live part of the year in Sabah, (Malaysian Borneo). Miles of coastline but do you think you can get fresh "local" fish at any of the better restaurants? Even in the 5* hotels they try to force feed you Australian cod and Norwegian salmon. And don't mention meat. Apart from ostrich (which some Chinese restaurants call emu) you just can't get red meat. Forget about a decent joint of beef or lamb. The available "steaks" are heavily tenderised and devoid of any taste.
Tim Han, London,