Giles Coren
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Like those world atlas projections based on the cost of air travel, in which America nuzzles up against Ireland but Geneva is shunted to the other side of the world, the moving of the Eurostar terminal from Waterloo to St Pancras has changed the map of the capital for ever, drawing North London to the dead centre of the A-Z and forcing everyone else to regroup around it.
With Paris now only two and a quarter hours from King’s Cross, such places as Westminster, Holland Park, Clerkenwell and even the City of London will have to accept that they are but suburbs of Camden. And South London will, I imagine, simply cease to exist. Since its only function until now has been as a gateway to France.
With millions of Frenchmen now set to emerge, blinking, into the North London sun each year, only nine minutes by bicycle from my home in Kentish Town, I begin to feel a sort of personal responsibility for their eating well on arrival. I sometimes think I should stand outside the station with a sign, pointing them in the right direction – not because I care if the Frenchies enjoy their meal, per se, but because I want them to go home with their tails between their legs, suddenly aware that we eat better these days than they do.
But with the opening of the St Pancras Grand last month, on the Eurostar concourse itself, just opposite the celebrated Champagne Bar, I think I can briefly relax. For I think it is well on the way to becoming as good an example of a modern British restaurant as we have. At least in looks, menu, service and intention, if not always, just at the moment, in the plated article itself. But that’s mere detail; the Froggies will be so bowled over by the time they get their food that they won’t even notice its shortcomings.
The place looks terrific. All the romance and cosmopolitan pizzazz of 21st-century train travel is carried off the rail and in through the doors. The room is vast, the ceiling golden, the hanging ball chandeliers creamy and gigantic – it’s rather Parisian in that way, very fin de siècle bistro (I’m thinking Flo, Bofinger, Julien…). Tables have been laid out to give a maximum of customers that double whammy of corner and banquette that simply screams “great table”, and small islands of seating are divided by cute glass screens that give a bit of privacy without compromising the sprawl of your overall view.
There is really good, dark, unvarnished parquet, dark brown upholstery and crisp white linen. And there are nice, wide aisles for good-looking, well-dressed staff to bustle up and down – bus boys hauling giant trays, Paris-style, for waiters to pull dishes from (consulting little table notes) and place before the right diners without fuss.
The moment you sit, they hit you with a carafe of water and a little steel bucket of mini-baguettes, and then a menu so perfect that it is almost a parody of where restaurants have been going in the past 18 months: a piece of A3 card in eau de nil with 12 headings: oysters; shellfish; smoked and potted seafood; caviar; soups and salads; cold meat counter; fish; meat; vegetarian; side dishes; puddings; cheese.
It’s practically a flag. It could replace the Union Jack on top of Buckingham Palace. You want to take it out in the street and wave it in French faces, crying: “See! See!”
And in among those headings you’ll find dish after dish that you could take outside and beat a Frenchy insensible with: “cold ox tongue with parsley potatoes”; “Constance Spry salad with salad cream”; “smoked Finnan haddock with crushed potatoes, poached egg, grain mustard butter”; “Country Captain chicken curry with poppadums”; “rice pudding with strawberry jam”; “custard tart, butterscotch, Garibaldi biscuits”…
And the wine list is a triumph, too. All this, just like that, from boring old Searcys, the institutional caterers who, apart from the odd blip (one thinks of Tom Ilic’s early days at the Barbican), have never brought us much joy. Perhaps you smell a rat. No, wait, not a rat. You smell a restaurant critic. And your nose does not fail you.
For the St Pancras Grand has been set up in consultation with none other than Fay Maschler, the doyenne of restaurant critics, the mummy of us all, who has now, after quite enough years merely writing reviews (for the Evening Standard), grown tired of screaming into the dark and turned her hand to consulting.
I don’t know much about her new business (we restaurant critics consider it impolite to talk shop), but she is in with another journalist and they are, I gather, offering their two penn’orth to the giants of the hospitality industry in return, one assumes, for quite reasonable oats. And the St Pancras Grand is their first project.

Giles Coren has been a columnist for The Times since 1999. He began as a feature writer before becoming restaurant critic in 2001. His reviews appear in The Times Magazine on Saturdays
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Why, oh why do you qualify rustic mashed potatoes as 'British'? Have you ever been to Germany?Denmark?Spain? My french grandmother also does amazingly rustic mashed potatoes, and she would be rightly insulted if I were to tell her that she was in fact cooking a British specialty.
elisa, london,
Having lived in London for six years, I can safely say that finding a good restaurant (whether it be an expensive and inexpensive one) is extremely difficult. Even outside London it is still quite difficult; this is simply not the case in France, even in touristy Paris.
elisa, london,
- Finally, French cuisine is superior to the English one partly because it is so much more varied - having travelled in the UK I have come to realise that there is no such strong regional culinary identity in the UK.
elisa, london,
as champagne is in fact originally from england, we used to import wine from france and change it into champagne, it may not go back as far as ale in england, but is still a fundamentally english drink.
to mike
ps this restaurant has to appeal to people from the continent who generally dislike ale. - Dan Largin age 12
Dan Largin, hackney, london
It is a shame that we are afraid to serve a nice glas of english ale--a pint perhaps?
why dedicate an arrival bar to an overpriced product from another country which of course is just what champagne is.
& no one should believe thay are getting value for money
Or a pint perhaps?
mike cassidy, gloucester, uk
sorry giles, this is nonsense. in france you can eat EVERY day for 11 or 12 euros a 3 course meal (often a buffet entree), a choice of mains and puds with coffee (a good expresso) AND 1/4 of wine included.
the food in england may be good, but it is also very very expensive
grindles, london, england
Those who sneer at France's culinary traditions clearly have no idea what they're talking about. Mainstream French cuisine and culture are overrated, sure. But at its best, it is sublime - and the best in British has always been heavily influenced by the French.
Besitz Belastet, London,
I assume/hope this is a joke (having recently moved back after five yr in Paris my sense of humour is dulled)? As you must surely know, the French will tolerate (almost) anything in a restaurant except poor food.
Andrew, Cambridge, UK
I'm sure this restaurant is fine (when the food lives up to the menu), but GBP25 a head without wine? In France, even in Paris, you can get two (equally good ) meals for that price,. If those are the prices there won't be many French people going there!
Marie, Calais,
"Anyone serious about dining out knows that Paris is a great place to visit," said Tim Zagat, CEO of Zagat Survey. "In no other city can you find as many living legends of the culinary elite still behind the stoves."
Also have a look at "Bad Food Britain" by Joanna Blythman.
QED.
Joelle, London, UK
You live NINE minutes away by bicycle and you took the car. Oh boy. Could you not have walked?? Or cycled? Walk off a bit of that mash, cheese, duck and pudding perhaps? Surely the whole point of living in town is NOT needing a car?
Nikki , Brighton,
French food is vastly over-rated and has been for some time.
It's easy to get handfulls of tasteless french fries and pizza but try getting some decent meat or vegetables and you will be out of luck.
Having had several trips there over the past couple of years this comes directly from experience.
bill, Knaresborough,
You live 3 stops away and you drove??????? The whole point of living in London is being able to leave the car at home and only use it for the odd trip to the country.
Kiri, North London,
THere are plenty of good restaurants and country pubs that serve up tasty food for around £10 per head if you actually venture out of London's zone 1 into those waste lands of south London and Surrey! As for Paris, I found the restaurants expensive and food unappatising
Luke Nicolaides, London, UK
Yes, it's possible to have very decent food in London but the difference is in the price. Find the right brasserie in Paris & you can eat like a king for 25 a head inc. a glass of red. I defy anyone to find the same value for money in London. A glass of decent house white will set you back 6 quid!
Neil, Luxembourg,
Sorry, but despite Coren's valiant attempt to boost its reputation, London/UK eating remains largely poor quality and overpriced (especially if you aren't on journalists' expenses). Compare £25 a head (ex wine) with 30 for two, hearty three courses, wine grappa and service included in Friuli, Italy
Robert C, London, UK
Well Paris is hardly a good representation of France's best food, as it is overpriced and overhyped for the tourist. If you want fantastic French food, go to a small town's local restaurant. I never expected great food and value for money in London, but i found great local pubs in the UK !
Aline, Hameln, Germany
What´s the point of the ethnic slurs against the French? Not only is it stupid and in the poorest taste, it demeans the quality of your article.
It costs nothing to be polite, though it seems odd to remind an Englishman of that.
Also curious is that you weren´t happy with the food.
Rob Davis, San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
Paris - The only place in the world I have visited where I had to send the wine back (Corked ) amidst much protestation from the Sommelier.....and they charged me for it !!
London is a much better place to eat - Now if we could only improve Service and Attitude !
Ken Holdaway, Riyadh 11393, Saudi Arabia
Danny Ritchie - once you would have been right; not any more though. And, incidentally, some of the worst food I've ever eaten was in Paris. . .
Ron Graves, Birkenhead, UK
Look, French food is 100 times better than anything you can get in London. You should stop being so defensive.
Danny Ritchie, São Paulo, Brazil