Giles Coren
Download 'Too Hot', an exclusive Specials track from iTunes

I have just lost my first friend to the depression/recession/credit crunch/banking crisis/global loss of confidence in the very notion of money and likely reversion to a subsistence system of barter and prayer.
Well, I haven’t lost him, per se. He’s still around. He just doesn’t make a million pounds a year any more. He makes no pounds. His job at the very top of a major corporation has simply ceased to be.
I can, as a result, no longer expect him to pay his way on nights out, or take his turns in the reciprocal lunching pattern that we have been operating during the seven (or more) fat years that preceded these impending ones of leanness. Obviously, I cannot always pay for him on these occasions, for that would be patronising. And we can’t very well start hanging out in McDonald’s. So I guess we’ll be seeing each other less and less now. We will gradually grow apart, and eventually lose touch altogether.
For me, it will be a great loss. But for Tom, at least, there will always be the consolation of seeing my face in the paper as he tucks it around himself to keep warm at night in the Archway underpass. And he may even, should he be unable to sleep on account of the strip lighting and frequent kicks from the rozzers, choose to read about where I have been most recently for dinner. (Tom is not his real name, by the way. I am protecting his identity for obvious reasons.)
The text message in which Tom broke the harrowing news to me of his altered circumstances read: “Will henceforth be free for lunch on a far more regular basis – although you will be paying. Am available today, for example. River Café?”
I called him back but got his voicemail. That is always what happened when one called Tom in the fat years – he was always too busy to take an actual call, and employed SpinVox to convert your message to text because he could not abide blatherers – but I was surprised to find him still so unapproachable. I texted back to tell him I thought the River Café was still closed for refurbishment after the fire.
My phone rang. “Not any more,” said Tom. “They open today. And, guess what? They’ve got a table going at 12.30. Imagine, an early table at the first lunch back. You can review it and then put it on exes.”
I said I guess I could.
I arrived at 12.25 (always be five minutes early when it’s your table, five minutes late if you’re the guest) and saw Tom climbing out of a taxi.
“I thought you might walk it,” I said. “In the current circumstances.”
“Walk?” he roared. “From Ladbroke Grove? That’s practically a mile. And, anyway, in these hard times it’s the poor old cab drivers that suffer most, along with the nannies and cleaners and gardeners. It’s very important to do one’s best to keep them afloat. It’s just my way of saying, you know, mea culpa, I got rich, I rode the wild money hog to hell and back, but now that I’m down on my luck I’m still going to look out for the little people.”
“You got a pay-off then?”
Giles Coren has been a columnist for The Times since 1999. He began as a feature writer before becoming restaurant critic in 2001. His reviews appear in The Times Magazine on Saturdays
Win a luxury weekend to Newcastle and its neighbour Gateshead, find out more here
Risk, resilience and embracing new technology
Industry sectors news at a glance. Interactive heatmap, video and podcast
Discover the power of collective thinking. Submit a solution and be in with a chance to win a Media Hub Home Entertainment System
The inside track on current trends in the charity, not for profit and social enterprise sectors
Everything the Business Traveller needs to know to make a better trip
Make the most of the summer and enter our fabulous photographic competition, you could win a £5000 holiday
Corsica is an island of beauty and contrast, an ideal holiday destination
Enjoy further reading from Travel to Fashion, Business to Sport, discover more
Shortcuts to help you find sections and articles
The clever way to lease a new car is with Car leasing made simple™
2009
per month on 36-month
Personal Contract Hire (PCH)
2008
42850
Car Insurance
£24,250 - £30,346
MI5
London
£60,000
The Environment Agency
Bristol
Up to £90K
Boots
Midlands
OTE £85k
Credit Protection Association
Nationwide Opportunities
Completely London
Luxury Condo's in Manhattan with NYC views
The best new homes in Wimbledon?
Nationwide
Fabulous Cruise And Cruise & Stay Offers Including Virgin Atlantic Flights Prices Start From Only £699pp!
Last Minute Cruise And Cruise & Stay Offers. Med From £499pp, Caribbean From £699pp!
5 star quality at a 3 star price.
8 fabulous Canadian cities ...you won’t find cheaper
Contact our advertising team for advertising and sponsorship in Times Online, The Times and The Sunday Times, or place your advertisement.
Times Online Services: Dating | Jobs | Property Search | Used Cars | Holidays | Births, Marriages, Deaths | Subscriptions | E-paper
News International associated websites: Globrix Property Search | Property Finder | Milkround
Copyright 2009 Times Newspapers Ltd.
This service is provided on Times Newspapers' standard Terms and Conditions. Please read our Privacy Policy.To inquire about a licence to reproduce material from Times Online, The Times or The Sunday Times, click here.This website is published by a member of the News International Group. News International Limited, 1 Virginia St, London E98 1XY, is the holding company for the News International group and is registered in England No 81701. VAT number GB 243 8054 69.