Michael Winner
The man, the films, those blondes. Free DVD collection starting this Sunday
Barbados has many charms but it’s certainly not the culinary hot spot of the world. That’s putting it mildly.
Although the Sandy Lane food dipped last Christmas-New Year I still ate 35 lunches and dinners there, only going out seven times. Two of those outings were to a restaurant I’d never visited in my 25 years of Barbadossing, the Fishpot.
It’s absolutely terrific. Far better than that so-called “great” Barbados dump, the Cliff, which is the most overbooked, second-rate place in the world. When tour operators sell their packages they suggest booking key restaurants even if it’s a year in advance. So everyone makes bookings. When they get there they change their minds. It’s chaos.
Last time I went to the Cliff I got a New York steak, supposedly medium rare, which consisted of four separate slices of beef overdone beyond belief. The arrogant girls who run it behave as if they’re bestowing a favour letting you in. There are very few good tables. Usually I found myself in an alley with a high-rise rock on one side and black sea (it was night) on the other.
Daphne’s, another useless waste of time, occasionally has reasonable food but the service is so slow everyone complains in high volume.
The Fishpot, on the other hand, is a delight. You turn left out of Sandy Lane and drive 25 minutes, passing endless hoardings hiding upcoming apartment blocks and foreboding signs on wasteland reading, “Prime residential site for sale”. Eventually you come to old Barbados.
There are little wooden houses, market stalls by the beach, cane fields and an aura of better times. At the Fishpot you sit right by the sea, in an old 17th-century fort. It’s also a 21-room hotel. It’s tranquil. It’s beautiful. It’s what Caribbean life should be.
Andrew Warden, the owner, is Australian. Actually I didn’t put that on my tape so he could be from Uruguay, China, Ethiopia or anywhere. But I’m sure he said he was Australian.
The superb restaurant manager, Trevor Paris, is Barbadian, so is their excellent chef, Stephen Belgrave. The service is wonderful. The minute you finish your plate beautifully dressed local waitresses remove it.
I went first for lunch with my favourite interior decorator, Richard Hanlon. I returned with magnum-plus music mogul Lucian Grainge and his wife for dinner. Lucian was driving and followed my directions. Always a mistake. We found ourselves nowhere near the sea, surrounded by cane fields.
I phoned the restaurant and spoke to someone who told me we’d passed the place. “Stay on the line,” I commanded, “Don’t leave the phone. If you leave the phone I’ll die. I’m dying.”
“If you’re dying I’ll have to call my superior,” uttered the voice in panic. Thus someone else guided us back to the Fishpot. There was a left turn I’d forgotten about. That’s how Mark Thatcher got lost in the desert, if you remember the case.
Let’s talk food now. For lunch the Fishpot had fresh local lobsters, which is more than Sandy Lane could offer at the time. They presented lobsters from Belize. Must have been on ice so long all their spirit and structure had departed.
At the Fishpot I started with a perfect pina colada followed by a mixed fish platter, including lobster, clams, sardines, smoked salmon. I had a tiny cup of its fish chowder to taste. Marvellous. Geraldine had flying fish with salad. Loved it.
Everything was so fresh. Richard had grilled dolphin with salad and chips. My lobster had an incredible butter sauce, I don’t know what they put in it, but it was fantastic. They even served Evian water in a bottle.
My dessert was homemade apple pie, and tasted like one. Geraldine had coconut crème brûlée, which was superb. Richard had cheesecake. I tried that too. Impeccable.
On the return journey I noticed more building – “Woodpecker apartments now for sale”. What a nightmare.
Back at Sandy Lane, in my role as an unpaid agent for restaurant staff, I’d got them Manny Ward, a fantastic local fellow, to be the new manager of Bajan Blue, the hotel’s beach-side dining area. That meant service was far better than the previous year.
His second-in-command, Jazz Bovell, is probably the worst restaurant employee ever. But Barbadians, including Wade, an undermanager who should be promoted, also waiters Nicholas, Cathy, Jane and many others are a delight.
Another Sandy Lane employee who deserves to be moved up the totem pole is Eric Mapp, the hotel’s resident manager. He’s Barbadian, been there forever (but not as long as me) and unlike some of Sandy Lane’s staff knows what he’s doing. It’s always nice to end on a positive note. Quite unusual, really.

Michael Winner has made more than 30 films in his career as a director, but is arguably better known for his outspoken restaurant reviews. His weekly Winner's Dinners column for The Sunday Times features visits to the world's great eateries
Read the training tips and advice that helped our London Triathletes
Times Online's new TV show helps you make the right decisions for your pet
Read our exclusive 100 Years of Fleming and Bond interactive timeline, packed with original Times articles and reviews
The latest travel news plus the best hotels and gadgets for business travellers
Shortcuts to help you find sections and articles

Made from Italian Summer truffles

50% off top restaurants, book online
2007
£47,700
2007
£41,899
2008
£41,445
Great car insurance deals online
£25,510 – 32,000
Transport for London
London
£50k
NHS
Nationwide
£
£90,000 + PRP
Essex County Council
Essex
100K
Confidential
London
5% below developer pre-launch price!
Luxury Appts, beautiful gardens w/ Thames views
Great Investment, River Views
By Funway – Thailand
from £589pp
Christmas Cruises
From only £995pp
APTs East Coast now from only
£2425pp.
Great travel insurance deals online
Contact our advertising team for advertising and sponsorship in Times Online, The Times and The Sunday Times. Globrix Property Search - find property for sale and rent in the UK. Visit our classified services and find jobs, used cars, property or holidays. Use our dating service, read our births, marriages and deaths announcements, or place your advertisement.
Copyright 2008 Times Newspapers Ltd.
This service is provided on Times Newspapers' standard Terms and Conditions. Please read our Privacy Policy.To inquire about a licence to reproduce material from Times Online, The Times or The Sunday Times, click here.This website is published by a member of the News International Group. News International Limited, 1 Virginia St, London E98 1XY, is the holding company for the News International group and is registered in England No 81701. VAT number GB 243 8054 69.
Moved to Barbados in March so getting plenty of opportunities to sample the cuisine.
I've had several meals at The Cliff and they have all been excellent. Yes it is a bit pricey but the service, location and food are all very good.
My personal favourity is Aqua down on the south coast.
Derek Dunne, Prospect, St James, Barbados
Michael Winner is right about The Fishpot, IMHO. We stayed for two days recently at the adjacent Little Good Harbour 'hotel' (actually individual houses / apartments in amongst a lovely garden, with no normal hotel reception - quite casual). It is part of the same establishment as Fishpot. And, MW, the owner is Australian; the manager, Graham, is local (Bajan) and very welcoming. The food was some of the best we'd had for a long time, both lunches and dinners. Breakfasts were also varied and interesting. The setting is relaxed, right on the beach, and staff were attentive. Service was 'relaxed' but not too slow. Reasonably priced for the quality. Thoroughly recommended.
David & Gilly Roberts, Cirencester, UK
We were at the Fishpot last Wednesday 20 Feb 2008 (Lunar Eclipse). Mr Winner they must have known you were coming. We were a party of 6. Whilst the venue was delightful, the staff were indifferent young Angel couldn't even remember the 2 specials and really looked 'spaced out'.
A very limited menu for a fish restuarant, all 6 of us struggled to choose, and those that ordered those teeny weeny beach crabs in tempura were sooo dissapointed The meal was sad, lukewarm and therefore overpriced.
We left as soon as we could. Had the manager been in attandance would have gladly told him how much we had enjoyed our food in his native Australia in Jan.
We had a splendid 60th birthday meal at the Cliff, indeed the very best during our stay.
We were very fortunate with our housekeeper - Marcia at Reeds House
Eric Mapp I would agree deserves a gold star, as does Michelle Babb at Sandy Lane.
Awaiting commets from Fishpot.
Dr Russ & Mary Baldwin. Penperlleni. Mon.
Dr Russ Baldwin, Penperlleni, Monmouthshire
I have just returned from Barbados and have been before and tried alot of the recommended restaurants. Fishpot was one of them and having travelled there my partner and I were so discusted by the whole experience. We sent all our food back it was terrible. It was dry, it was just about warm. We had Calamari and Prawns to start - Calamari tasted like something from a packet. I sent it straight back, for the main we got the seafood platter and it was not even nicely presented just whacked on a plate luke warm and dried out bits of fish and more extra dry and fried calamri! Service was not good either. They didn't even apologise at the fact it was a bad as we thought - baring in mind I was so hungry and I am not that fussy I could have eaten most things but not what they dished up. Find it amazing that it had such positive comments.
Nicole, London, UK
Having just returned from Barbados I couldn't agree more with Mr Winner's comments about the cliff--over-rated and over priced, with dirty toilets to boot! The door staff thought they were something else and made it very difficult for 4 OAPs in front of me almost to the point of being abusive. The food was no where near as my other two favourites: Fishpot and Champers.
I love the Fishpot and went to it for the first Christmas it was open and have been back every time I visit the island.
Simon Robinson, Bath, UK
I agree with the Fishpot being one of the better places in Barbados. Having stayed there for years and my husband living and working there for 15 years we have been to every new and old restaurant on the island. Agree about Daphne's and yes, the Cliff is getting ridiculous. Glad to hear Manny is at Sandy Lane. A lovely place we went to was Scarlet's and the new Champers and Tides are quite good.
Lane Richards Peace
Lane Richards Peace, New York, New York, USA
We have just returned from our first visit to Barbados and booked The Cliff for my husbands birthday. We went with friends and were blown away by the setting and had wonderful food, served by friendly, warm and delightful staff. We had a wonderful evening. As we were staying in Speightown, Fishpots was our local restaurant and had two wonderful evenings there. The food really is exceptional and the setting and service is first class. The same can be said of "Mangos" in Speightown and Mr Winner should try that on his next visit.
Mandy Harpham, Sheffield, England
What about Champers? Weâve never had a disappointing meal (lunch or dinner) there (in both the old and new locations). They are on par with any of the restaurants mentioned above. The art gallery on site is interesting too.
<a href="http://cockroachcatcher.blogspot.com">The Cockroach Catcher</a>
Am Ang Zhang, London, England
Having enjoyed January in Barbados for the last 5/6 years this time we felt that there was a deterioration in the quality of the food overall. Tides and Lone Star gone down hill, less said about The Mews & Olives the better, Groots still the best for fish ´n chips & mushy peas and steak & kidney pud, but there are two new stars, Aqua on the south coast & Sassafras in Sugar Hill.
However the view from The Cliff is still fabulous and although The Fishpot is good wish they would do something about the plumbing.
What particularly annoyed my husband was the practice of putting on the bill "service charge" and also "tip"
Marilyn & Haydn Jones
Portugal
Marilyn Jones, Quinta do Lago, Portugal
micheal winner is right about fishpot the best in barbados and a lovely setting dont rate the cliff my daughter was having her wedding reception there until hurricane ivan hit and they couldnt open what a relief .daphnes you could die in there waiting to be served. southsea is a bit better. and you also get to watch the turtles but the lone star takes some beating any day
victoria and brian wallace ,redcar ,england
victoria wallace, redcar, england
Michael is spot on as usual. The Fishpot is brilliant, The Cliff over-rated and Daphne's merely trading on the good name of the faded London establishment. But my favourites are Tides and Calabaza - a hidden gem in Prospect.
David Miller, London,
We had two excellent meals at Daphnes the week before last. Excellent service and charming staff.
Henry Watt, London, Chelsea
The Fishpot is a delightful restaurant with excellent service and food, I had the Carribean Shrimp, delicious. Reasonably priced, I thought, in comparison to The Cliff or Tides.
However, I think calling The Cliff "a dump" is rather unfair of Mr Winner! It's refreshing that they stick to their 1st come 1st served policy of allocating tables.
Didn't care for Daphne's either, preferred IL Tempio down in Fitts Village for Italian Food.
I really can't imagine why anyone would want to sit on the beach in front of Sandy Lane, it's like the M25 with everyone walking to and fro. The beach area around Little Good Harbour is much quieter.
Jill Byers, Dalston, Cumbria
I often go to the Fishpot for Sunday lunch, it's the perfect place, can't believe it's taken so long for Mr Winner to discover it. But unfair comments about Daphnes's
Maria Bartrum, Barbados,
Mr. Winner, did you check out the hotel part? If the food and service are that good, maybe you should move to the hotel on your visits - although at 21 rooms, maybe the room sizes are not as large as you prefer. Thanks for the tip though - our next trip to Barbados we will be staying at the Fishpot.. as far as I'm concerned, Sandy Lane is a washout.
Susan Proctor, Victoria, B.C. Canada
I couldn't agree more about The Cliff. We had a far superior experience at The Restaurant at Southsea. The Cliff has been resting on it's laurels for far too long.
Denise Black, France,
Whilst I agree with him that The Fish Pot is very good he is so so wrong about Daphne's and The Cliff
The are far too many good reviews by 'real' people about these two to accept that Winner really knows what he is talking about
Perhaps he has his own reasons for being so scathing about The Cliff and Daphne's... that are not related to the quality of their food and service
Mike Peterson, MAIDENHEAD, UK
Andrew Warden is Austalian. We have shared similarly enjoyable times at Fishpot. As a foreigner living in Barbados for the past year, I am glad that someone from the UK is putting The Cliff, Daphne's and some others in their right place. I have boycotted the expensive restaurants for the past 6 months, Cheaper to save money and fly to New York occasionally for a meal.
Dennis Jones, St. Michael, Barbados
last time I was at the Fishpot, we all watched a turtle pull itself agonisingly up the beach and lay dozens of eggs. within minutes a small team from the university of Barbados had arrived to take most of the eggs away to be incubated safely elsewhere. best 'floor show' ever.
Oh yes, the food and service were wonderful.
julian harston, laayoune, western sahara