Giles Coren
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From the moment I walked into Divo, the plush new Ukrainian restaurant near Trafalgar Square, my plan was to love it. And if I didn’t love it, and couldn’t love it, then to write it up as if I loved it anyway, and leave you, my perspicacious and sharp-witted readers, to read my true meaning.
“The biggest, richest, most abundant curtains you will ever see,” I was going to write. “The thickest carpets. The biggest chairs. From the flat-screen televisions in rococo frames mounted at slightly wonky angles to the bottles of Cristal priced at a keen £600 and the waitresses dressed as Alpine airport sex shop souvenirs, everything about Divo says ‘class’.”
But I wasn’t sure if I could make it last a whole piece. For example, my starter of “Salo with croutons”, which is described on the menu as “sliced, cured lard with salt”, was one about which, from the moment it was set down before me, it was always going to be difficult to rhapsodise. But I will try.
I ordered the “salo” because I love the Italian delicacy called lardo di colonnata, which is the pale, magnolia-coloured fat of the pigs of the Apuane Alps sliced to the thinness of polythene and draped over hot, gossamer-light buns so that in warming it yields up the scent of the coriander, sage, rosemary, pepper and garlic with which it is cured (usually in marble tubs).
So imagine my delight when I discovered that the Ukrainian way is to slice the fat off a kilo of thick-cut Danepak and served it curled into giant bows it would take an industrial waste disposal unit to chew through before closing time. You get about a kilo of this stuff on your plate, which may look scary, but don’t worry, it doesn’t taste of anything, and the man has not been born west of Warsaw who could digest it. Best of all, it was only four quid. A bargain which brought the average cost of our two starters down to £162.
For my guest, you see, had the beluga caviar with pancakes, priced at a generous £320. Look, I take a chick to a Ukrainian joint, I try to make it sound more appealing by saying, “We’ll have caviar and champagne”, and when I get there I find that it’s 320 quid. What do you want me to do, order the £14 salmon caviar? You just can’t do that in a place as classy as Divo. And anyway I wanted to see what it would feel like ordering a three hundred quid starter.
The waitress in the red pinafore and lace bustier didn’t even blink when I loudly declared, “And for Tallulah, the beluga.” Not at the idea that I was ordering so screamingly expensive a thing, nor at the idea that I might know someone called Tallulah, nor at the lovely sound the sentence made.
“Is it enough for two?” I asked.
“Is come with two pancakes,” she said.
“But do people normally share it or do they have one each?” I insisted. I was straining, straining for an excuse to fork out £640 on starters alone.
“Is normally not share.”
“Well, how much do you get for £320?” I asked.

Giles Coren has been a columnist for The Times since 1999. He began as a feature writer before becoming restaurant critic in 2001. His reviews appear in The Times Magazine on Saturdays
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Valerie in NYC Responds
To all the fair-minded international audience of Corenâs column in the Times who courteously allowed me my say without resorting to personal attack, I thank all dozen of you. To some of the ones who chose to attack me because I hold a view apart from theirs, stay tuned:
valerie, NYC, USA
Valerie still further responds:
To Ken in Todmoron
Iâve done some legwork on the subject of the comics and find, yes, comics would deliver more humor in fewer words and less space. Sounds to me as though you are both knowledgeable on the subject of, and familiar with, the funny papers. As a reader of Corenâs work, I can understand why.
valerie, NYC, USA
I sometimes enjoy reading Coren's reviews. But I have to agree with Valerie in NYC/USA: demeaning others to build a negative review is a case of wanting to be funny in the worst way.
tom, Toronto, Canada
When a Ukrainian restaurant opened in my city (Krakow, Poland) more than 10 years ago, it was exactly like that. To further Polish-Ukrainian ties, it operated on rent-free premises donated by the city council. But then it was later found to be a Russian mafia transition point for illegal immigrants and soon closed down by the Polish police - but not before its "Ukrainian" owners got a bank to get a huge cash loan and ran away with the money. I'm not saying this is going to happen with Divo too - just that it is one possibility. Real Ukrainian food (bread and cheese especially) is really very, very good.
Jan, Krakow, Poland
valerie - we pray you discover your wits and your humour soon.
Billy, Paris,
Perhaps Valerie would prefer your reviews in comic-strip form with no long words.
Ken, Todmorden, UK
Take it easy on Valerie from NYC, she could be used to a different style of restaurant critique. Here in NYC, we have our versrion of A.A. Gill (Frank Bruni) and he is quite good at his job. However, Mr. Bruni's reviews are not nearly as hillarious as Mr. Giles or Mr. Gill.
Jason Silverstein, NYC, New York
Crikey mate,
Sounds like you stumbled into a Russian clip joint by mistake.
Tim, Bangkok,
Valerie,
There are Americans who 'get' us British and those who don't and never will. With your comments, its obvious that you fall into the latter catagory and completely fail to grasp Giles Corens humour, which is fairly reflective of English humour in general and much loved by most who read his reviews. I suggest that you just don't read Giles reviews in the future as they obvioulsy go way over your head!! Keep it up, Giles and don't change a thing!
SC, Brit in the US,
Well, slavic cuisine is sometimes strange, but it's just perfect when you have ice-cold vodka shot on the table or hangover from last night.
Marinated mushrooms, gherkins with honey, assorted cold meats,dumplings, soups......mmmm
Sad, then that this new place has stupid caviar pricing and negligent attitude, they need to improve.
Oh, and Valerie from NYC, you can easily check the end of this and many other restaurant reviews for conclusions, there's no need to read all this text if you want info in 2 sec.
Readers here probably like Giles' writing style (and AA Gill's & J.Clarkson's), at least I do.
Estonian, Tallinn, Estonia
Very, very funny and makes me nostalgic for days in Kiev. But Giles your last paragraph says it all. What were you doing drinking wine with your food? Thats not how it's done no wonder you didn't love it!
What you needed was a lot of vodka and this would have been a completely different review.
But..."I began to see why so many Russians (Ukrainians, whatever)" ... Noooooooo!
Claire, los masos,
Get a sense of humour Valerie. Since you are in NY you probably aren't going to be going out to too many London restaurants and Giles is writing for entertainment for heavens sake.
Ian, Frederick, USA MD
Valerie, how dull it would be if a food review was so black and white as you so creatively say "dissed, dismissed and dumped on in a line or two".
I love the way Giles Coren writes and being in the food business myself read restaurant reviews all day long and can happily say I think he is the wittiest, sharpest and most accurate of them all !
Sarah, London, UK
I'm sorry Valerie but if you do not appreciates the ascerbic wit of the likes of Giles Coren then perhaps you shouldn't read the column. Personally i've never laughed so much whilst working on a Saturday and the review really brightened my day, particularily as i know that i'd never pay to eat in a restaurant such as this and it's somewhat reassuring to know i'm not missing anything.
Chris Carr, Sunderland, UK
Valerie-
I found the piece very entertaining and worth the time it took to read. Perhaps you should simply have not continued to read once you realised that the writing was not to your taste.
GIles, clearly you are the 'brightest little lad in the class', keep it up!
John, Oxford, UK
Giles is the brightest lad in the class. And a class column to boot.
Charlotte, Munich, Germany
Who wants to read a restaurant review where a restaurant is dissed, dismissed and dumped in a line or two? There's blogs for that.
Giles may not be the brightest in the class, but restaurant reviews are meant to entertain. I'll never visit any of the restaurants he writes about, most probably, but I do enjoy reading his reviews. I've stopped reading newspapers in Singapore since I discovered Times Online, frankly. I know more about what's happening in UK than on my own doorstep.
Like all entertainment, it's all subjective. What one finds funny, others may not like. So if you don't like it, just don't read it.
Bertrand Lee Chai Pin, Mauritian in Singapore, Singapore
why waste so much space with so much boring writing making bad jokes about food that tastes like dentists fingers when a it could've (and should've) been dissed, dismissed, and dumped on in a line or two ? Or do you really think that the purpose of your column is to endlessly prove to us readers that you remain the brightest little lad in the class?
Valerie, NYC, NY, USA