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For me, slow-cooking is the new therapy. When things are slightly manic
elsewhere, you can take the time and care to use the best ingredients and
transform them into culinary perfection. You’ve got no excuses at the
weekend because time’s on your side, and time makes for perfection.
It’s the ultimate indulgence: for me, the slower it is, the more enjoyable it
is, because the flavours are more important than any deadline. I love how as
they evolve over time, deepen and strengthen, the aromas start releasing and
filling the whole house and the food almost becomes flawless. This is where
chefs are at home, when they have more time to cook, and it always goes down
really well in the restaurants: people appreciate how much more time and
effort has gone into cooking it than, say, a quick pork fillet or a bit of
salmon.
We’ve been doing oxtail with a really nice purée of parsnips, and the oxtail
was braised for three and a half, four hours, taken off the bone, mixed back
in with its juices and wrapped in braised lettuce to give it a glamorous
coat. One customer said the last time she’d had oxtail was 25 years ago when
her mother cooked it, but she’d never had it so tender: that’s because it
was slow-cooked.
Slow-cooking really lends itself to cheaper ingredients, because of the
lining of fat that you’re going to render down, and there’s less chance of
making any major mistakes. You can’t really go wrong with it, to be honest.
Take the ribs below: poor old pork
ribs got bastardised in Chinese restaurants up and down the country for
years, but we’ve put a completely new identity on them and made them really
vibrant and spicy. And I’ve cut the richness with Granny
Smith mash, which is a great way to make mashed potatoes a little bit
sexier - and kids love it because it’s that bit sweeter.
Spending that extra time in the kitchen really gives rewards: the carrot
soup sounds quite laborious, but roasting the carrots brings out their
flavour, and the end result is stunning.
Recipes
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