With all the outdoor concerts and festivals going on over summer, sometimes
it's nice to make a bit of a splash with your picnic. But that doesn't mean
you have to go overboard on elaborate presentation. You can still eat well
without packing half your dining room into the car. So if you have ever felt
upstaged by the couple with the folding table and chairs, candelabra and ice
bucket, read on: this week's column is for you.
Pork tonnata rolls
Serves 6
You can roast the meat and keep it chilled for up to two days. I like to use
high-quality canned tuna by Ortiz for its chunky fillets and full flavour in
this recipe. You will find it in good delicatessens.
1.2kg boneless loin of pork
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
100ml olive oil
6 garlic cloves, peeled
1 sprig of rosemary, needles picked
6 sage leaves
Juice of 2 lemons
220g can top-quality tuna in olive oil
300ml anchovy-caper mayonnaise
12 anchovy fillets, drained
2 Romaine lettuce hearts, leaves separated
For the anchovy-caper mayonnaise:
2 egg yolks
1 tsp white wine vinegar
1 tsp English mustard powder
300ml groundnut oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
10 cured anchovy fillets, in oil, finely chopped
3 tbsp capers, rinsed and finely chopped
2 tsp freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 Preheat the oven to 220C/Gas 7. Pat the pork loin dry with kitchen
paper then score the skin with small incisions all over. Rub 2 tablespoons
salt into the skin, drizzle with a little of the oil, then put the pork on a
roasting rack, set inside a roasting tray. Cook for 20 minutes. Whiz the
garlic, rosemary, sage, the juice from 1 lemon and remaining oil together to make
a marinade.
2 Remove the pork from the oven and pour the marinade all over. Lower the
oven temperature to 190C/Gas 5 and continue to roast, allowing 25 minutes
per 450g, basting every 15 minutes. Remove the meat from the oven it
should be cooked and just a little bit pink. Cool in the tray then chill. When
the meat is completely cold, trim all the fat and skin from the loin and
carve into thin slices.
3 For the mayonnaise, put the egg yolks, vinegar and mustard in a food
processor with a little seasoning and blend until smooth and creamy. With
the motor still running, gradually start to trickle the oil into the yolks,
drop by drop, until you have a thick mayonnaise.
4 Once all the oil has been incorporated, mix in a tablespoon or two of
cold water to stabilise the emulsion. Fold the anchovies into the mayonnaise
with the capers and parsley. Drain the tuna from the oil and shred finely
with a fork, then stir into the mayonnaise. Add lemon juice and seasoning to
taste.
5 Spoon a tablespoon of the mayonnaise on to the end of a slice of
pork, then roll up. Place an anchovy fillet on top then secure with a
cocktail stick. Repeat with the remaining pork and mayonnaise, reserving the
leftover mayonnaise for dipping. Chill until ready to serve. Arrange the
lettuce leaves on a plate and place the pork rolls on top, with the
mayonnaise in a small bowl on the side.
Potted crab with ginger, lime and chilli with Melba toast
Serves 6
The potted crab will keep in the fridge for up to three days. Transfer it to
your picnic spot in a cool bag and then bring back to room temperature to
serve.
200g unsalted butter
400g white crabmeat
5cm piece fresh root ginger, grated
Grated zest and juice of 1 lime
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
2 tsp freshly chopped coriander, plus extra to garnish
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 pieces of medium sliced bread
1 Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat, then tip into a jug
and set aside to allow the milky solids to sink to the bottom. Pour the
clear, clarified butter into a clean jug, leaving the milky solids behind.
2 Check the crabmeat for pieces of shell, then mix with the ginger,
lime zest and juice, chilli and chopped coriander. Check for seasoning, then
divide the mixture between 6 x 150ml ramekins.
3 Press the mixture with the back of a spoon for an even surface, then
pour over clarified butter to just cover. Press a coriander leaf on top of
each, then chill until set.
4 For the Melba toast, place the slices of bread under a medium grill
and gently toast on both sides. Cut off the crusts and then split the bread
in half horizontally. Return to the grill on a low setting, untoasted side
up, until they curl up and turn golden. Cool then store in an airtight
container.
Apricot and almond tarts
These stunning tarts would be delicious served with mascarpone, sweetened with
a little icing sugar and flavoured with vin santo or amaretto. They are best
eaten on the day they are made. Transport them to your picnic spot in their
tins to prevent them from getting damaged on the way.
75g unsalted butter, softened to room temperature
75g caster sugar
1 large egg, lightly beaten
75g ground almonds
4 tbsp apricot conserve
6 apricots, halved and stoned
Icing sugar, to dust
For the pastry:
225g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
Pinch of fine sea salt
1 tsp sugar
140g unsalted butter, diced
1 large egg yolk, beaten with 2 tbsp
cold water
1 Begin by making the pastry: sift the flour and salt into a bowl then
stir in the sugar. Tip into a food processor, followed by the butter, then
whiz until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
2 Add the beaten egg and pulse for a few seconds until the mixture
comes together. Tip the pastry on to a lightly floured surface, gather into
a ball and knead briefly until smooth. Wrap the pastry in clingfilm and
chill for 30 minutes before rolling out.
3 Meanwhile, beat the butter and sugar in a large bowl until light and
creamy. Beat in the egg and, finally, the ground almonds to make a
frangipane mixture. Cover with clingfilm and chill until ready to bake.
4 Roll the pastry out on a lightly floured work surface and use to line
six 8-10cm tart tins. Chill the pastry for 20 minutes. Line with greaseproof
paper and baking beans, then bake in a preheated oven at 200C/Gas 6 for 15
minutes. Lift out the paper and baking beans and bake for another 5 minutes. Cool
slightly.
5 Spread a little jam over the base of each pastry case. Cover with a
thin layer of the frangipane and smooth the surface. Cut the apricot halves
into thin wedges and arrange on top of the frangipane in a pretty pattern.
6 Sprinkle lightly with icing sugar, then bake for 20-25 minutes, until
the frangipane has risen and feels firm and the apricots are cooked. Leave
to cool in the tins before turning them out.
I agree with the other comment about the sponge for the summer Berry & Lemon Roulade, the sponge was like cardboard - we ate ours though and the filling disguised it. Still had good comments about it!
stephanie boswell, Bromley, Kent
Hello Gordon,
Hello Gordon,
I tried to make the Summer Berry and Lemon Roulade from Saturday Times a few weeks ago, to take to a lunch party. Filling was DELICIOUS but sponge a disaster. I had to throw it out. Was there a mistake in the recipe (quantity of flour?). I had to make another roulade from another recipe at the last minute as I had already made the filling.
Please tell me how to make the sponge; the recipe CAN'T be right.
Rosemary Fraser, Norwich, Norfolk