Serves 4

Fennel grows in considerable abundance in the wild in the Mediterranean — you'll also find it along our coastal paths at this time of year. Less pungent than fennel seeds, it adds a fantastic mild aniseed flavour to food and can be used raw or cooked in salads, roasts and stews. You can substitute it with fresh dill, the feathery fronds from fennel bulbs or

1-2 tsp fennel seeds
3 tbsp olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1kg blade-side lamb chops, on the bone, or chops from the neck end
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 large fennel bulbs
Juice of 1 lemon
250g midi plum tomatoes
2 sprigs of rosemary
2-3 tbsp chopped wild fennel or dill
200ml lamb or chicken stock
100ml dry white wine

1. Preheat the oven to 160C/Gas 3. Heat 2 tbsp oil in an ovenproof casserole dish. Season the lamb with salt and pepper, then brown the meat in the oil over moderate heat on all sides for about 5 minutes. Remove from the casserole and set aside.

2. Pour away the excess fat from the dish, then sauté the onion in 1 tbsp oil until soft and lightly golden. Add the garlic and continue to fry for 1 minute.

3. Remove the fronds from the fennel bulbs (reserve for later use if you like). Cut the fennel into chunky wedges and add to the casserole. Brown the fennel briefly with the onion and garlic, then pour in the lemon juice.

4. Slice the tomatoes in half and add to the casserole. Nestle the browned meat and the rosemary among the ingredients and season well. Scatter with the wild fennel or chop the fronds from the fennel bulbs now, if using, and sprinkle over the lamb. Pour in the stock and wine and bring to the boil.

5. Cover with a lid, then pop in the oven and leave to cook for between 50 minutes and 1 hour, turning the meat occasionally until it is nice and tender. Serve with plenty of bread, couscous or rice.

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