Serves 4

You can buy snails with or without their shells in cans from delicatessens. This recipe serves four as a main course. For a starter, simply halve the quantities.

5-10 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 tsp each finely chopped tarragon and rosemary
1 tsp finely chopped parsley, plus extra to garnish
200g unsalted butter, softened
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
48 ready-to-use snails, weighing about 300g, shelled
Juice of ½ a lemon

For the fondue

1kg Ratte or Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and cut into equal chunks
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
150ml double cream
30g butter, diced
200g camembert, diced

1 Mix the crushed garlic with the tarragon, rosemary and parsley. Blend into the butter using a wooden spoon. Alternatively, blend the garlic and herbs in a food processor, then gradually work into the butter. Season to taste and chill until ready to use.

2 Rinse the potato chunks well, then place them in a pan and cover with cold water. Add some salt, then bring them to the boil and cook until tender. Drain the chunks well, return them to the pan, then set over a gentle heat and shake the pan until any excess water has evaporated.

3 Pass the potatoes through a ricer or mouli, or mash them as well as you can with a potato masher. Push the mashed potato through a sieve into a pan, rubbing it through with a rubber spatula or the back of a ladle. Add some salt and pepper.

4 Bring the cream to the boil, then pour on to the potatoes and beat until smooth. While the mixture is still hot, add the cubes of butter and cheese. Beat until the butter and cheese have melted and blended into the potato purée. Check for seasoning and keep warm.

5 Melt about half of the garlic and herb butter in a heavy-based frying pan (you can keep the rest of the butter in the fridge or freezer for another time). Sauté the snails in the butter for 5 minutes over moderate heat. Add a squeeze of lemon juice and season to taste.

6 Reheat the camembert and potato fondue and divide between warmed plates. Spoon the snails on top of the fondue and drizzle over the juices from the pan. Sprinkle with the remaining parsley and serve immediately, with crusty bread on the side.

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