For an archive of Gordon Ramsay's recipes, see www.timesonline.co.uk/ramsay
Mornings in Gordon Ramsay’s large south London home are clearly something of
a hurdle. There are the four Ramsay children to get off to school, never
mind the procession of e-mails, international calls and deals which it would
appear take place before the famous chef has even sat down for breakfast.
Eventually Ramsay strides into the living room where I have been positioned
to await his presence.
He is proudly carrying a mug of coffee. On one side are emblazoned the words
“F*** off”, on the other is a photograph of Ramsay giving a one-finger
salute. The profanity of this piece of crockery is quite at odds with the
room, furnished with beautiful leather chairs, fur cushions and arty black
and white photographs.
Of course, this discrepancy is Ramsay all over. The master of London’s only
three-Michelin-star restaurant (Restaurant Gordon Ramsay on Royal Hospital
Road in Chelsea), television star and cookbook guru is as famous for his
foul language as he is for his impossibly elegant culinary creations. More
so, probably.
After all, he has been swearing in the living rooms of the nation for a good
few years, courtesy of his combative culinary programmes Kitchen Nightmares,
the F Word and, of course, Hell’s Kitchen, which he pioneered and took to
America.
These programmes saw Ramsay, immaculate in his chef’s whites, raving and
berating Clist celebs and hapless restaurateurs alike for daring to produce
sub-standard food under his nose. The audiences on both sides of the
Atlantic laughed a lot and lapped up series after series.
In the flesh the Ramsay visage is a bit less craggy, but the spicy integrity
of his vocabulary is bracing. His latest volume of biography, Playing with
Fire, is more a window into the world of rapid-fire swearing than the world
of culinary management. The book’s profanities start after only five words.
Ramsay takes a sip from “F*** off”: “It’s kitchen language. It’s the nature of
the beast. I don’t get off on it. I get really frustrated when I’m the only
chef that admits to swearing, because everyone does it. When the s*** hits
the fan, let it hit the fan. If it’s sh***, it’s s***.”
He is amused that prep-school boys on the school bus have decided to educate
one of the junior Ramsays, 7, who travels on it each morning, in the family
style of parlance. “The big boys take him to the back of the bus and teach
him new words,” says Ramsay fondly. “Yesterday he came back with ‘w***’.
He’ll come back today with another word.” He pauses. “I think it’s
character-building.”
Ramsay knows a bit about character-building. Born in Glasgow 40 years ago but
raised in England, he had to abandon his football career with Rangers in
1985 due to a knee injury and signed up to catering college on the advice of
his mother. His father thought prancing around in a kitchen was a bit of a
nancy-type thing to do, which might account for Ramsay’s macho belligerence.
“Nothing came on a f****** spoon for me,” he says. “Everything has been
built on the coalface.”
However, his empire seems to have become a bit rickety of late. He’s on every
television ad and billboard but it hasn’t been a great month. His restaurant
on Royal Hospital Road lost the top spot in the Good Food Guide (to Heston
Blumenthal’s Fat Duck) and also the top spot in the Zagat restaurant guide
(to Bruce Poole’s Chez Bruce), and his celebrated tenure within the
Connaught hotel came to an (amicable) end. “The last three weeks have been
the shittiest in terms of negative press,” Ramsay agrees.
The general consensus is that Ramsay has gone slightly off the boil because he
has spread himself too thinly. Naturally, he will have none of this. “I’m
cooking at Royal Hospital Road tonight!” he splutters. “And I was there last
lunchtime! If anyone thought I was spreading myself too thin, go and eat at
Royal Hospital Road. It’s London’s only three-star and has been for five
years! I got my nuts kicked in New York by The New York Times. But the place
[Gordon Ramsay at The London] is fully booked for two months! I’m judged as
a persona over the quality of what I produce, and that’s my downfall.”
Maybe the problem with Ramsay is that he has insisted too strongly on his
persona going along with the produce. “I’m not crying about whether I sold
myself out. Do you stop supporting Man U because Wayne Rooney appears in an
advert? No. Spreading myself too thin? Come and eat the food and shut up!”
Such prodding will probably only have the effect of making Ramsay work even
harder and go even more global than before. Work is Ramsay’s mantra. Work,
and then work some more. And if this doesn’t solve anything, work a bit
harder. Ramsay never wearies of promoting toil and sleepless nights. “God
forbid, if I lose my third Michelin star in January I’m not going to sit
there and cry over spilt milk. I’m going to win it back,” he says. Long
hours in the kitchen have put ironed-in creases on his face, but have also
brought him an estimated fortune of £67m.
And he is proud of his behaviour. There is nothing that infuriates him more
than when peers such as the dapper Raymond Blanc, owner of Le Manoir aux
Quat’Saisons, speak out about their dislike of effing and blinding. “I don’t
want to bang on about Raymond Blanc but that guy is full of s***,” says
Ramsay, energetically. “When Raymond was carving out his reputation at the
Manoir, he was a talented, full-on compulsive, swearing, tough chef, in his
kitchen. Now he is in his late fifties, he starts to philosophise. Which is
bullshit! F*** off, you French twat. Where were you 20 years ago? Beating
the s*** out of the English and throwing pans at Marco Pierre White [a
Raymond Blanc pupil and Ramsay’s former boss and nemesis].”
I ask Ramsay whether he has watched Blanc’s recent television series. “The
minute they subtitle it and I can understand what the f*** he is saying,
I’ll watch it,” growls Ramsay. “Plus, I think they need a hand with the
viewing figures.” Ouch.
Ramsay is very competitive. In his book, he writes about the need to beat
Jamie Oliver’s book sales. Clearly, running London’s only three-star, etc,
etc, plus the New York operation, not to mention the multi-million-pound
empire, Gordon Ramsay Holdings, with its 1,300 members of staff, is not
enough. He also needs to take on the Cheeky Chappie himself.
“Jamie Oliver is a noose around my neck,” Ramsay says. “He sold 40,000 copies
of his book last week!” Naturally, there is a new Ramsay cookbook on its
way, which its author immodestly hopes will knock Oliver off the bestseller
list. “Haven’t you heard of Recipes from a Three Star Chef? It’s beautiful.
F****** hell,” he says, pleasantly.
But though he grumbles about them, he likes having rivals. “We all need
targets. Jamie Oliver is a phenomenon . . . to make every parent feel guilty
about what their children are eating. Jamie Oliver inspires me with what he
has done. With his publishing arm.” Miaowww.
How about that other hot TV chef, Nigella? Is there a sexy Gordon in the
kitchen awaiting us all? “Nigella? A target? You are joking, aren’t you?”
says the grand chef, grandly. Then he collapses with laughter. “I would just
love to ask Nigella whether I could look at her boobs. Without touching
them. Because they are the most amazing breasts,” he says, quickly adding,
“My wife agrees with me,” in case I got the wrong idea. “But as a chef? You
can’t get inspiration for cooking from that! Sexy cooking? What, me standing
there with my fingers in my mouth?” I think we’ll move swiftly on.
Where Ramsay does have the edge on his rivals is in his capacity for
team-building which is the key to his success. When he walked from
Aubergine, his first, celebrated restaurant in London, so did all 46 of the
staff, to set up on Royal Hospital Road. Ramsay’s brainwave was that he
should train up not future rivals, but future partners. As he puts it, he
creates “Mini-mes”.
His protégés are now in charge of their own restaurants under the Gordon
Ramsay umbrella. Pétrus, Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s, and Maze are all run
by Mini-mes. His most famous Mini-me, Angela Hartnett, has just left the
Connaught and will be opening her own restaurant in Mayfair, within the
Gordon Ramsay Holdings group, naturally. “Every angle in my business; my
restaurants, my TV shows, the editorial and publishing, is covered with a
Mini-me. It’s phenomenal,” says Ramsay. “That’s why I’m comfortable going
forward at this rate.”
He suggests that what has stopped his rivals from becoming as successful as he
is, is a failure to invest in talent similarly. “You can’t give me six names
from other top chefs who are also their subsidiaries, partners, shareholders
or independent restaurateurs.”
Of course, some of us dim journalists still don’t get it. “Some silly cow in
Japan turned round and said, ‘Yeah well if he’s such a hands-on chef, who
does the cooking?’,” says Ramsay witheringly. “She was wearing a fantastic
pin-striped $1,000 suit. I said to her, ‘Who made your suit?’. She said,
‘Armani’. So I said, ‘Did you ask whether f****** Giorgio Armani had
stitched it?’ Of course not! Too many people are focusing on me,” he
concludes.
So what is next? By spring 2008, he hopes to be the toast of the city of
cuisine herself with a restaurant in Paris serving mainly British produce.
“Paris is a big one for me,” he admits. “We are opening a 40-seat restaurant
at the Trianon Palace hotel just outside Versailles.”
His rationale? First, to achieve three Michelin stars simultaneously in New
York, London and Paris. Second, an intriguing culinary patriotism. “I’ve had
a bellyfull of the French coming over and telling us how s*** our food is.
We should f****** shout from the rooftops, with our hand-dived scallops from
the west coast of Scotland, and our venison from Balmoral, our wonderful
Aberdeen Angus steak, and our f****** mussels and oysters from beds in South
Ireland. Why not?”
Gordon Ramsay’s Playing with Fire is published tomorrow by HarperCollins,
£18.99
gordon ramsay is good
he has shows
i like them
sometime i want eat ramsay food
but his potty mouth oh man he says f so many times
troy siscoe, yarmouth, canada
I do not know how he can be so arrogant, yet humble at the same time, but that is the only way to describe him.....as a contradiction that works, because I and others find him absolutely amazing. If he DID do to Marco White what has been said that he's done, then I think he is a force to fear, and would be rather difficult to trust as an endeared friend. But then we never know what is truth, and what becomes the writer's of these stories liberties they feel so amply will the writ of passage to take when talking about public figures. At the end of the day, are we all not looking forward to being the best, and being well paid in doing so. I should imagine writers are no different that Chefs. It all comes down to the star power and how many people are paying attention to you, right?
Susan, Lebanon, Oregon
I cannot get enough of Gordon Ramsay's show, it is utterly fascinating how he turns these restaurants and their owners around from a dismal failing restaurant to a new beginning, the show is great on Fox here in the USA
Ann, fort lauderdale, fl usa
Gordon you're a model, maybe not of diplomacy but of courage and talent.
And I agree with promoting British cuisine, it has fantastic recipes that many out there and even in Britain unjustly ignore.
I am French and love good British food. Fantastique!
Antoine B, Reigate, Surrey, England
gordon is the man... the past month i have been on a huge gordon binge...
he has a hypnotic personality...
his recipes are the best too!
Dustin, Champaign, IL, USA
I think Gordon and Olivier are not in competition with one another. They rather complement each other. So in this respect there is no one to be beaten.
Philip, Amsterdam, Holland
Old Firm Match at Ibrox this weekend Gordon.
Where your blues.
paul kelly, Atlanta, Georgia
I love the way such negativity is directed at the successful, it's a very British trait (pat yourselves on the back, well done). Gordon got to where he is today by sheer hard work and determination, against the odds, with an abusive father who moved his family frequently all over the country. He literally started with nothing. To have got to where he is today he should be celebrated, not berated.
Matt, Colchester,
Hey, he already beat Jamie Oliver in the "Star in a Reasonably Priced Car" challenge. Why strive for anything more -- unless it's at Kitchen Stadium New York?
Victor Wong, Ottawa,
Why has English English descended to such vulgarities? It is a rich language with a wide vocabulary, but the unnecessary stars seem to be more and more widely used, in print, on the screen and on the streets. I find it offensive and unnecessary; just because someone else chooses to demonstrate their limited use of language and constantly repeat the same basic words (presumably trying to make a statement) does not mean I wish to have it forced upon me too. Perhaps the words could be edited out from an interview- just as other things seem to be sometimes if a journalist does not like the slant of a comment! It is often a relief to travel abroad now and be released from the constant torrent of foul language which dominates the UK.
Jane Lanston, London, UK
Am I the only one who thinks Ramsay is nothing more than a cynical and frankly quite boring marketing exercise?
Gerard Casey, London,
Nigella Lawson is top, top standard, she has wonderfully simple recipes, she makes it all look so incredibly easy.
Nigella also speaks in a clear and concise manner, her work speed is at the correct pace for one to remember vividally without writing the recipe down.
No one else compares with Nigella, long may she reign. She oozes, inner and outer beauty, kindness, charm, she is absolutely worth sitting in to watch the delightfully entertaining show.
Daniela Pani, Reading, Berkshire
To Tony in Islington - come to Glasgow and repeat your ignorant knowledge of our diet.
Never eaten a deep fried pizza in my life (nor a Mars Bar) and tend to avoid deep fried anything.
Sweets - like most woman in the UK, I adore chocolate.
And as for Wesley's comment - I'm still laughing at your name!!!
Elaine Smith, Glasgow,
I had the pleasure of eating at his restaurant in Tokyo - on my own money I might add.
The check was not as pricey as one would expect and the food was outstanding. Perhaps Armani was in the kitchen, but whoever it was, a great job was done.
Dr. Death, Hong Kong, SAR China
You may well be right, "David "Hub-UK" Jenkins, Ipswich, UK". However and the important thing is, Mr Ramsay has very little to learn about cooking good food.
Raymond Blanc is, no doubt, a very great chef and he certainly doesn't merit any kind of insult. However, we have the media, which we deserve, and if Mr Ramsay is clever enough to use it, to his advantage, all credit to him.
We build them up and, then, we try to knock them down. However, we seem to be failing, as far as Gordon Ramsay is concerned. Why? Eat at one of his restaurants and you will wonder why you were silly enough to ask.
Marc, St. Barthelemy,
Go and eat in one of his restaurants (if you can afford it). The food is fantastic. Ignore all of the F words and TV stuff, when it comes to running a restaurant he is world class.
BOB, Derby, Derbyshire
I hadn't realised that Gordon Ramsay had a chip on his shoulder about Raymond Blanc. To insult Raymond Blanc in such a way is rather pathetic for someone who has achieved as much as Gordon Ramsay.
On the few occasions that I was in the kitchen with Raymond Blanc I didn't hear him swear. I am sure he is capable of doing so but he doesn't do it as a matter of course.
As a schoolboy I used the F word in every sentence but then I grew up . . . and now I only use it in every third sentence.
Marco Pierre White didn't stoop to rubbishing Raymond Blanc and his autobiography does not suggest any abuse from Raymond Blanc.
Gordon Ramsay still has a lot of demons to overcome!
David "Hub-UK" Jenkins, Ipswich, UK
I buy Gordon Ramsay's books. Why? Because I, also, buy books by/about , Rembrandt, Martin Luther King, Shakespeare etc. I know it may seem daft, "Brooks, Munich, Germany" but I love genuine talent. If you had bought some of Mr Ramsay's books, you may be a better cook. However, whether you (or I, for that matter) can cook is irrelevant. Gordon Ramsay is one of the greatest chefs on this planet. Of that fact, there is no doubt. This may be uninteresting to some, but then, I hate rugby, cricket and beer. I love good food, good friends and a great evening. Thanks Gordon!
Marc, St. Barthelemy,
Right on, wing, Poole, UK. I can´t understand why anyone buys these expensive celeb. cook books. I browse through these at the bookshops but do not part with my hard-earned money in order to keep some TV chef in clover!!
When I want a recipe I Google .
Brooks, Munich, Germany
Gordon Ramsay is to cooking in England as Don Cherry is to hockey in Canada.
Neither are hesitant to speak their mind as both KNOW what they are talking about. Why? because they put their heart, soul and lives into it. Who cares what other people think?
Rock on Ramsay!
Jon, London, ON, Canada
Ramsay's comments on Nigella as "a chef" are irrelevant : in her latest book, she emphasises that she's no "chef" - just a "cook".
That's, no doubt, a large part of why she, her programmes, and her book, are as welcome as they are refreshing : and every delicious dish so easy to put together.
gareth carter, Loughborough, Leics / UK
Gordon Ramsay is one of the very few who really understand what developing talent means. Over 80% of his staff have been with him for over 10 years - not many people can admit that and be delivering excellent shareholder returns. Whilst he may swear and have opinions that does not detract from the fact that if you have a dream and you work hard you can achieve anything. Well done Gordon keep up the good work you are giving young people something to aspire towards.
Simon, Golden, British Columbia, Canada
I run a restaurant ...... Gordon is telling the truth the language and jokes are deeply unpolitically correct and very refreshing and funny for this day and age. As the saying goes "if you can't stand the heat, stay out of the Kitchen". Unfortunately, the average british chef\cook does not have the passion that some European countries have about food - as a result the general population is not naturally talented or passionate on the creation of menus, preparation and cooking of food in the Industry. I know! - I try very very hard to recruit British Chefs....it is a real problem
.........And everyone is allowed views about their "competition" - why is his considered to be so offensive?
Jan, Edinburgh, SCOTLAND
I am a chef running a catering business for over 30 years. It is silly and a waste of money for people to keep buying all these extremely expensive cook books written by many famous celebrity chefs. All they have to do is to go along to their local libraries and borrow some cook books (which can be renewed up to ten time online). If we really examine all cook books closely they are more or less the same. All it takes to make a tasty dish is fresh ingredients and a bit of imagination. The message is simple, please don't part with your hard earned cash just because you see a picture of a celebrity chef on the gloss cover of a cook book because he or she probably also had borrowed the ideas from various other old cook books ! If people are still skeptical all they have to do is to look at the various takeaway menus( Chinese, Indian or Italian etc.)pushed through their letter boxes. They will be struck by their similarity!
wing, Poole, UK
The man is a national - and now an international - disgrace. An insecure ego can produce many types of personality; with him its manifested as pure vileness. I can see why he would appeal to the lowest common denominator, but why intelligent and respectable people indulge him is beyond me. I can only imagine they think it borgeoise to rub shoulders with a celebrity chef.
Oh how the middle classes howled about Jade Goody, the venom, the contorted face, the loudness, the foul language! But then she didn't cook food for a living.
Eugene, Chester, England
To Tony in Islington: How's the "boiled beef and carrots! boiled beef and carrots!...." down your neck of the woods?
billy, Lincoln, England
So, Gordon wants to 'show the French'? Fine. What he doesn't seem to be bothered about any more is raising the general standard of preparing and enjoying food for the ordinary Brit (which is where Jamie and Nigella - and Delia, all score better). And, I suppose, why should he care? His eateries are packed with those rich enough to keep his empire growing. Yes, his culinary skills may well equal those of the best French chefs. Where he is mistaken is in thinking that his own undoubted ability (which he will of course demonstrate at the new Parisian venture) means that British cuisine - generally - compares well with normal French cuisine. It clearly doesn't. But Ramsay as a brand will continue for some time yet. As for myself, I couldn't really care less about branded goods; I won't be shelling out on books, celebrity-endorsed cookware or even eating at overpriced restaurants just to keep an aggressive, abrasive and egotistical person in business.
andrew mashkov, london, uk
I think that Ramsey must be a very insecure and frightened man that he needs to be so loud to maintain his self image.Marco would have had an easy time getting under his skin.
Talent and fear.What television gets from him is the bombast and childishness of the uncertain.
Mellow Gordon,you made it and there is nowhere else to go.
robert everitt, wolverhampton,
where can I get one of those mugs... perhaps with my face on it!
Wesley Winegarden, Rainham, United Kingdom
"just how glaswegian is ramsay? i understood the food there to revolve around deep fried pizzas and sweets"
ANd potatoes
Anyway, since he left it became a european city of culture
Neil Murphy, cromer,
You're right Tony. In the same way that food revolves around jellied eels in your neck of the woods.
Alan, Glasgow,
I think I like this guy!!
Dave Dombrock, Owatonna, USA
just how glaswegian is ramsay? i understood the food there to revolve around deep fried pizzas and sweets
tony bart, islington, london