With so much emphasis quite rightly on finding sustainable food sources, shellfish is often a good option - especially mussels, which are so inexpensive, and far easier to prepare than you might think.

Rather like scallops, wild mussels are harvested by hand with minimal disruption to the sea-bed, and farmed mussels are equally environmentally friendly. Although they are now available all year round, I think they are particularly good this month - plump and pale in colour, with plenty of flavour.

Once you get them home, it’s best to eat them the same day, although you can keep them wrapped in damp newspaper in the bottom of the fridge for 24 hours.

When you are ready to cook them, soak them in cold water for one hour and then, using a sharp short-bladed knife, scrape off the barnacles and pull away the whiskery beard. At this point, discard any that either are cracked or do not close immediately when tapped.

Always be sure to cook mussels in boiling liquid and discard any that do not open.

Recipes

Moules marinieres

Curried mussel broth

Baked mussels with brioche and Gruyere crust

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