Last week I wrote about foods that are riding high in the fashion stakes.

This week I’ve turned to something at the other end of the spectrum - pulses. Ingredients don’t come any unsexier than that, with their worthy, open-toed sandal associations. This is a shame, because they’re a great addition to many dishes.

They can sit in the larder for years and are so versatile - you can add them to salads, purée them for spreads, fry them with leeks, use them to thicken soups…

Most dried beans will need soaking beforehand. Some recipes tell you to do it overnight, but this makes them waterlogged. A couple of hours is plenty, then simmer them on a gentle heat so as not to break them up.

Lentils don’t need soaking, but you should always rinse them first to get rid of the dust. In the restaurants we cook them with thyme, garlic, a quarter onion, a whole carrot and sometimes a slice of bacon, so that they absorb some basic stock flavours.

Adding a slice of lemon rind helps preserve the lentils’ colour. You must not cook them too quickly or they will explode and get all furry.

Another trick is to take them off the heat when they are 90 per cent there, and either let them absorb a bit of the stock, or dress them in vinaigrette so that they absorb that.

That’s beautiful served warm as an accompaniment, and will keep for ages in the fridge.

Recipes

DUCK CASSOULET

SPLIT RED LENTIL AND SPICY SAUSAGE STEW

THREE-BEAN SALAD

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