There are many types of fish associated more with autumn than summer and the first that springs to mind is cod. Maybe that’s because, coated in a beer batter, deep-fried and served with chips and mushy peas, it’s the ultimate comfort food.

Sadly, overfishing has often led to it being in the press for the wrong reasons.

So, be sure to choose farmed or line-caught Pacific cod that has been certified by the Marine Stewardship Council and tuck into this week’s recipe for cod with clams and bacon with a clear conscience.

Although unrelated to and less sought after than red mullet, grey mullet is also fantastic.

It is comparatively cheap and, if you go for the larger specimens, its flesh is much meatier, similar to sea bass. I pair it with the strong flavours found in Asian cooking to add to its subtle, earthy taste.

After the whitebait of summer come the sprats of autumn – the same young herrings, but by now about two to three inches long. Sauté or grill them quickly and serve their rich, oily flesh with punchy flavours, such as in the devilled recipe below.

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