Salmon is a fantastic fish to cook with, not least because of its versatility. As far back as the Middle Ages, it was used in a range of different ways: in dishes that required it to be braised or salted, or added to soups and stews. Once an expensive delicacy, it is now farmed extensively so is relatively cheap. However, this greater availability has not come without its problems – in many cases, poor farming practice has had a negative effect on the quality and taste of the fish, so always go for the best you can afford.

If you want to splurge, opt for wild salmon, which are in season for around six weeks from the end of May. They do not come cheap, but their amazing deep coral colour and fantastic flavour are worth the price. For everyday occasions, choose organically farmed salmon or farmed salmon that has been certified by a trusted conservation society, such as the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC).

Quality salmon, like most good fresh produce, is best served simply. It has the most incredible flavour, which is buried if smothered in a strong sauce. For a light lunch, I’ll prepare a plate of paper-thin slivers of smoked salmon, dressed with a little squeeze of lemon, a few twists of black pepper and perhaps a dollop of horseradish cream on the side.

Whenever I get a really fresh piece of fish, I like to make it into an easy no-cook salmon tartare – quite delicious with a chilled glass of crisp white wine. Of course, perfectly cooked salmon steaks or fillets are also a joy to eat and, this week, I offer a couple of lovely ways to serve them – from pan-fried to poached.

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Pan-fried salmon with courgette chips 
and tartare sauce

Serves 4

This is a light and summery 
take on traditional fish and 
chips. The courgette chips are extremely moreish – golden brown and crisp on the outside, soft and tender in the middle. 
If the salmon is really fresh, 
all it requires is careful cooking and a little salt and pepper. 
Just a note, though: it really 
is worth putting in the extra effort to make your own tartare sauce – contrary to popular belief, home-made mayonnaise 
is nothing to be scared of.

4 salmon fillets, skin on, 
about 140g each

2 tbsp olive oil

For the courgette chips


Vegetable oil, for frying

6 large courgettes

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