This is one of my proudest creations and, I suppose, a good example of a recipe that isn’t originally from Italy, but sits uncontroversially in her culinary canon. I don’t think it would be too presumptuous to name this linguine ai funghi crudi. It is about as speedy as you can imagine: you do no more to the mushrooms than slice them, steep them in oil, garlic, lemon and thyme and toss them into the hot cooked pasta. I’m afraid this dish had to be forcibly taken away from me during the photo shoot for this book, otherwise I’d have eaten it all up before it could even have its picture taken.

The dressed mushrooms also make a great salad, in which case boost the quantities of sliced mushrooms to 375g (omitting the pasta altogether but keeping the other ingredients the same). If all you can find is regular button mushrooms, this pasta is still worth making – so no excuses.

Serves 4-6

225g chestnut mushrooms

80ml extra virgin olive oil

1 x 15ml tbsp Maldon salt, or 1½ tsp table salt

1 small clove garlic, crushed

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

4 sprigs of fresh thyme, stripped to give

1 tsp leaves

500g linguine

1 bunch fresh parsley, chopped

2-3 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan,

or to taste

Freshly ground pepper

1 Slice the mushrooms finely and put in a large bowl with the oil, salt, crushed garlic, lemon juice and zest, and marvellously scented thyme leaves.

2 Cook the pasta according to packet instructions and drain loosely, retaining some water. Quickly put the drained pasta into the bowl with the mushroom mixture.

3 Toss everything together well, then add the chopped parsley, grated cheese and pepper to taste, before tossing again, and eat with joy in your heart.

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