Zoe Strimpel
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Oliver Prince, 32, is the executive chef at Bumpkin, a new rustic, British-themed restaurant in Notting Hill
What's in your kitchen?
Delivered fish, vegetables, meats. Suppliers must be careful farmers who don't
use pesticides and are sympathetic to animals. Veg comes from Secretts,
a farm near Guildford, and from Andreas
Georghiou & Co in Turnham Green; my butcher is Frank
Godfrey in Highbury and fish is from Billingsgate Market. I've used all
these for ten years and trust them.
How would you sum up your food philosophy?
Seasonal and simple - just letting the ingredients do the talking.
How has British food and our attitude to it changed in your lifetime?
Since I've been cooking we've been through fads for French and Mediterranean
food, then Pacific Rim and fusion food. But I'm not really into food
fashion. Now people are beginning to appreciate all the good things that
come from British soil, whereas years ago a good meal meant, by definition,
a French meal. British food is becoming top food. But then again, I always
loved British food as my mother was an avid cook and mealtimes were a very
happy family time for us.
What annoys you about the food culture in Britain?
Faddishness, to an extent, but also our the organic obsession - all food
should be organic and the fact that we have to pay more for it annoys me.
You shouldn't have to spend the extra money, really, to get the quality. The
other big thing that annoys me is fusion food. If you're cooking Italian,
cook Italian. If English, stick with English. Adding Asian and Mexican
flavours simply because you can or it's trendy is just wrong.
Who or what is Britain's best kept food secret?
Samphire, also known as sea asparagus, which grows on the mud flats in tidal
estuaries on the East Coast. I used to love going out there in my wellies
and picking it. I get it delivered in season - which is late spring/summer -
from Secretts and Andreas. I still like picking it when I'm on holiday. It's
great with butter.
Do you prefer eating in or eating out?
Definitely in. Being a cook, I enjoy my cooking more when at home. It's more
family-oriented and there's no pressure.
What's the next big food trend?
Championing British food is going to contunue in a big way. National dishes
will continue on the rise - look at Scott's
seafood restaurant in Mayfair and places like that. And that's what I'm
doing at Bumpkin, of
course. On Sundays we do Aberdeen Angus beef with roast potatoes and
Yorkshire pudding; another great British dish is Charter pie, made with
chicken, leeks, bacon, white wine and cream in puffed pastry.
Do you have any eco-tips?
It's important to think about how we dispose of things? I get 40-50 boxes per
day coming into the kitchen - plastic, cardboard, polystyrene. So I now ask
my suppliers to deliver in plastic crates that they own, and collect the
next day. No boxes. We're also insisting on small things such as switching
off electricals in the building instead of leaving them on standby. I'm
going to buy a compactor too which can reduce 1,000 boxes to a simple
square, making them far less wasteful to dispose of. We use recyclable
aluminum foil and cling film, and try to come up with environmentally
friendly alternatives to the heavy duty stuff we use to clean the kitchen.
Bumpkin
209 Westbourne Park Road, London W11 1EA
020 7243 9818
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Its heartwarming to read that executive chefs as well as celebrity chefs have such an understanding of modern farming and economics.
It's organic food, it's less intensive= it costs more
If you wanted all the food in the UK to be organic we couldn't grow enough= the price would rise
MGB, Carmarthen, Wales
I am very happy to pay more for organic. I know the time, dedication and care that growing this way involves.
People are used to paying nothing for their veg, because they demanded it according to price, and the supermarkets followed suit.
Pay peanuts, get monkeys. I'd rather pay double to get a tomatoe that tastes like it did when I was a child, than the watery acid filled mush I get from Tesco et al.
Rebecca, Cambridge , UK
I should love to see the calculations on which Dawn bases her opinion.
Industrial farming caught on because it produced large quantities of food cheaply, in the short term, at least.
I am a small - scale organic producer and can attest the demands placed by the Soil Association are strict and involve extra costs at almost every stage. Seed, plants, animal feed, fertility and slaughter costs are higher, often much higher, and require careful planning. Maximum stocking densities are much lower. Then there is the cost of the annual inspection.
Most organic producers believe in the long - term viability of their methods, are proud of their produce and are willing to put in the extra work to maintain their status.
Geoff Lake, Isle of Skye, Scotland
Organic food should be cheaper
Dawn Cheryl McGuckin, Brighouse, West Yorkshire