Tony Dawe
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WHO would have thought 20 years ago that a popular outing in the South West would not be to a beach, moor, castle or cathedral but to a vineyard? Today every county in the region has at least one vineyard producing thousands of bottles a year and attracting visitors in big numbers -and new ventures are starting at regularly.
Hotter and longer summers are great news for English wine, which is now consistently reaching the mark in terms of quality and yield. The biggest vineyards are at the extremes of the region, north east of Gloucester and in the middle of Cornwall. Even on a wet Tuesday lunchtime two weeks ago, the restaurant at the Three Choirs vineyard near Newent was full.
Three Choirs, named after the music festival in the three nearest cathedrals, is typical of the development of English wine. It started in 1973 with a farmer planting half an acre of vines in an orchard as an experiment. Now 70 acres are under vines, producing 700 tonnes of grapes last year.
In the shop it is possible to taste ten wines, including single varietal whites, blends and a light rose. Ask nicely and you might be allowed to sample the good-quality sparkling wine and excellent Four Oaks red (see below). Vineyard tours take place every afternoon and in addition to the shop and restaurant Three Choirs also has accommodation looking out on the slopes.
Camel Valley vineyard near Bodmin was a sheep farm when Bob Lindo bought it 18 years ago. He was keen to try winemaking and after a few tough years he dispensed with the sheep and concentrated on making award-winning wines. His pride and joy is Cornwall Brut, a fruity, but dry, sparkling wine. The 2004 vintage beat 250 champagnes to win gold in an international competition but is now sold out.
Should you visit the vineyard before the 2005 vintage is released, try the Sparkling Pinot Noir Rose for a lift. Vineyard tours take place every weekday afternoon from April 1 and end with tasting a wide range of its wines on a veranda overlooking the valley.
Smaller vineyards in the region offer an opportunity to see the vines and buy the produce. Visitors to Sherborne Castle in Dorset, whether exploring the splendid ruin or the more modern estate with its many facilities, can pop in to the castle shop to pick up the estate wine. Paul Carter, farm manager, says the 2006 harvest was so good that the three acres of vines will produce 15,000 bottles of three white wines and one sparkling.
If further proof was needed of the improving quality of English wine, Duval Leroy, an influential French champagne house, has opened negotiations to plant vines on a sheep farm between Dorchester and Bridport. If all goes to plan, Bride Valley Brut could be ready for toasting British successes in the 2012 Olympics.
FOUR OF THE BEST WINES FROM THE REGION
* Cornwall Brut 2005, Camel Valley. The latest vintage of the sparkling wine that often beats champagne in tastings is released at Easter and should be as good as ever. Light, fruity, persistent bubbles. Pounds 16.95
* Sharpham Barrel Fermented Dry 2005. Made in South Devon from madeline angevin grapes and one of few English wines fermented in new oak barriques. Complex flavours, Good finesse. Pounds 11.
* Sherborne Castle Special Reserve, Dorset. A popular blend of seyval blanc, bacchus and schonburger grown on the castle estate and available from the castle shop. Light, fresh and fruity. Pounds 5.95
* Cellar Door Four Oaks 2004, Three Choirs. Made exclusively from regent grapes, matured for three months in French and American oak barrels. Woody plum flavours, stands up to red meat, Pounds 10.50.
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