Jonathan Clayton in Wangige village
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As she proudly surveys a plantation of avocado trees and bananas, surrounded by pools of fresh cow manure, Jane Kimani cuts an unlikely figure as an ecological villain.
Like other farmers in this village, about 15 miles (25km) outside Nairobi, the Kenyan capital, she lives in a modest dwelling of brick walls and a corrugated-iron roof only yards from cow sheds, a new apiary and vegetable plots. She does not own a car and uses little electricity.
She farms organically without knowing it, simply because, like many people in a country where two thirds of the population live on less than 50p a day, she could not afford fertilisers and chemical sprays. Her carbon footprint is insignificant.
Yet Mrs Kimani and her husband, Charles, face economic ruin because of the alleged environmental impact of their modest farm. The Soil Association, which certifies about 80 per cent of organic produce in the United Kingdom, has threatened to take away the organic certification from farms in East Africa because their produce is transported to Europe by air, contributing to global warming.
The Kimanis moved into organic farming formally only four years ago. They joined 32 other farmers, each with just over an acre (half a hectare) of land, to form the Wangige Organic Farmers’ Group. They learnt new techniques and eradicated the few nonorganic practices they had.
Their products received the Soil Association’s treasured “Organic” stamp and they began exporting cauliflowers, avocados, tomatoes and cucumbers, mainly to Britain and Saudi Arabia. Prices were higher than in conventional farming, and life improved suddenly for all — a near-perfect example of the “trade, not aid” policies so often touted to end Africa’s poverty.
“It was difficult at first as there are so many things you cannot do and we had to have training,” Mrs Kimani said. “But since then, life has improved for us . . . Prices are better than for conventional farming.”
Now the farmers — it is estimated that there are 150,000 people dependent on organic farming in Kenya for their livelihoods — fear that they could be the victims of the latest Western obsession: food miles. If the Soil Association, which is debating the issue, recommends a partial or total ban on air-freighted organic exports, the industry will most likely collapse.
“If organic farming fails, it will cause many problems here. Local buyers will know we have nowhere else to sell and give us very bad prices again. We will have to abandon much of this,” Elijah Koinange, the secretary of the Organic Farmers’ Group, said. “They say our products are polluted but the consumers take jets and create much more pollution than we do.”
“You know, we only ever stopped organic farming because of chemicals and other fertilisers which came from your countries, and you told us they were good,” he added.
Kenyan producers emphasise that carbon emissions for all air-freighted food to Britain represent about 1 per cent of total emissions, and organic food a tiny percentage of that. They point out that, according to World Bank figures, a Briton emits an average 9.4 tonnes of CO2 compared with an African’s 0.3 tonnes.
They suspect that the real motive is an attempt by much-wealthier British producers, well represented within the Soil Association, to block cheaper goods. “The Soil Association proposal is just another non-tariff barrier to trade among the many that already exist,” said Eustace Kiari, of the Kenya Organic Agriculture Network, a grouping of small-scale organic farmers.
Announcing the association’s review of the impact of air freight, Anna Bradley, chairman of its standards board, said: “When reducing our impact on the world’s climate, we must carefully consider the social and economic benefits of air freight for international development and growth of the organic market as a whole.”
Critics say that the debate risks turning consumers off imported products from the developing world and fails to take into account the emissions created by European farmers who would fill the market gap.
“UK farmers use tractors, heat up greenhouses, drive to work in cars or on motorbikes . . . All these things need to be considered in the debate over carbon emissions associated with food production, organic and non-organic,” said Isaiah Esipisu, a campaigning Kenyan journalist, who has written extensively on the issue.
Calculations show that it takes 4kg of carbon emissions to fly 1kg of green beans or cucumbers from Nairobi to London. “This figure is utterly irrele-vant when you work out how much carbon Britons use going to the supermarket in their cars or driving to a friend’s house or restaurant for dinner,” he added.
Su Kahumbu, 43, who pioneered the organic-food industry in Kenya, fears that a collapse in the export market could kill off the domestic market as producers move back to conventional farming. She says that it flies in the face of Gordon Brown’s renewed pledge to eliminate poverty in Africa. “It could signal a return to aid when we have fought to set up this business and want simply the right to trade,” she said.
Outlets such as Tesco, where the bulk of East Africa’s output goes, say that they are more interested in “fair miles” not “air miles”, but they would then find it much more difficult to sell the produce if the organic label were withdrawn. “We recognise we have a responsibility to farms in developing countries,” Trevor Datson, a Tesco spokesman, said. “While we are trying to limit the amount of air miles in food sales, we will also be protecting farmers in Africa.”
Food and fuel
£1.6 billion value of retail sales of organic products in Britain in 2005, up 30 per cent on 2004
10.5% the increase in the area of land under organic cultivation — up from 7,711 hectares in 2005 to 8,522 hectares in 2006
50% of organic produce sold in Britain is imported
140% increase in the carbon footprint of air freighted food to Britain since 1992
9.4 tonnes is average amount of CO2 emitted by each Briton a year — 30 times more than the average Kenyan
Sources: The Soil Association; World Bank; Defra
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If the Soil Accociation does bar African produce, I for one will support a boycot of all Soil Association stamped foods. I would buy African produce if I could.
Rodney , OKC,
I think the Soil Association is running mad with its own sense of self-importance! It's a good thing there are other certification bodies in the UK which don't support the Soil Association's pontificating and to whom these growers could turn.
Mike, Stafford,
Oh come on here. Who are we kidding? Talk about saving the world - get rid of the selfish attitude of saving yourselves you guys at the Soil Association!
The Kenyans should be encouraged to promote and sell their produce. Do all you can to help and not to hinder. Let them trade!
Julia Tan, kuala lumpur, Malaysia
What percentage off UK members off the Soil Accociation use
diesel driven machines to seed & harvest there crops ?
And what percentage off Third World small farmers use machines at all ?
Please,could somebody out there supply the answer.
Les - Portugal, Alcobaca,
Dear Jonathan
Your Kenyan interviewee said that air-freight accounts for 1 percent of UK emissions. When looking solely at air freighted fruit and veg from Africa, the figure is much smaller - under 0.1% of the total. A two-page briefing paper is here: http://www.iied.org/pubs/pdf/full/11064IIED.pdf
Best wishes
Mike Shanahan Press Officer International Institute for Environment and Development (IIED) , London, UK
This really is ridiculous! How can the Soil Association legitimately think that they can withdraw the organic status that these Kenyan farmers have due to the way that they transport their goods to the UK? What alternative is there for the Kenyan farmers - they should ship their product instead?!!!
And our carbon footprint here is MASSIVE. So penalising a Kenyan farmer for their only way of transporting to us, and a carbon footprint which amounts to much less than what we produce, is beyond common sense.
It's immoral and unfair. Can't people see that people's lives are at stake - IT'S NOT JUST ABOUT MAKING MONEY.
It really makes me sad to think that so many self-interested people control the really important things that can make or break a person's life.
How utterly sad.
Samantha, Luton,
Thank you Jonathan Clayton for bringing the plight of our farmers to the British consumers.
Our voices need to be heard and respected.
The eventual outcome of this heated debate lies squarely in the hands of the same consumers.
The possible ban infringes on the organic principle of fairness....The Principle of Fairness
Organic Agriculture should build on relationships that ensure fairness with regard to the common environment and life opportunities
Fairness is characterized by equity, respect, justice and stewardship of the shared world, both among people and in their relations to other living beings.
This principle emphasizes that those involved in organic agriculture should conduct human relationships in a manner that ensures fairness at all levels and to all parties â farmers, workers, processors, distributors, traders and consumers. Organic agriculture should provide everyone involved with a good quality of life, and contribute to food sovereignty and reduction of poverty. .
Su Kahumbu, Nairobi, Kenya
The whole article beggars belief. To make any sort of worthwhile comparison is quasi impossible as there are too many peripheral factors to take in to account.Playing God indeed !
SYLVIA BARNES, CAUSSINIOJOULS, France
What ever happened to common sense and fairness ?
Let's put our own house in order before before we start pointing a finger at developing countries where people are beginning to find ways of supporting themselves and making a still very basic but regular living. We should be supporting them not making things difficult for them. I cannot believe that the Soil Association is serious about this. Personally I am infuriated by the sight of strawberries from the USA sitting alongside Kentish strawberries in M & S
Caroline Swift, Rochester, Kent
I fail to see what air miles have to do with organic. The whole point of the soil association is about how food is produced not the CO2 footprint. They need to be careful jumping on band wagons like this as they are a charity they may end up finding less people will support them and the industry may create a certification for themselvs. Look at the lion brand for eggs for example. For once I support the supermarkets for buying the produce from these countries. The soil association label is looking more and more like a reason to put the price up rather than anything else. I for one see an SA label and think that will be overpriced what else is there on offer. Maybe Kenya should create a 'grown in Kenya' brand. Some clever advertising around how organic/eco-friendly they are and they could get by without the SA brand.
Kevin, London,
I'm so glad this has been written from the farmers perspective. Surely fairtrade should be the most important consideration when buying our food, followed closely by organic? To be able to buy an item which is both is brilliant. Also, what about all the things which it would not be possible to grow organically in nearer places? People will still want to buy them, so they will still be imported. What madness to take away a rare bonus for these farmers on the west's latest fickle whim!
AC, Cannington, uk
The lot of you have missed the point. This is a consultation for which the Soil Association should be appluaded. A year ago the media were crying about the contradcition between organic and the environmental damge caused by air freight - no mention of African farmers. Now that the Soil Association has actually gone out to explore these issues people are starting to take notice of the social side of the argument.
We cannot underestimate the urgency with which we need to address climate change but when doing so we are going to come across tough decisions. Air freight is exactly one of these challenges and it is impressive the Soil Association are taking it seriously by addressing it through public engagement. Hats off to the Soil Association.
John Goodfoot, Chesterfield, UK
A lot of (most of?) the food is shipped, not airfreighted. Sea freight has minimal per kilo emissions.
Gerald, Edinburgh,
I'm curious where this number of 4kg of emissions to transport 1kg of produce from Kenya to Britain comes from, could you please cite a source in the future? These sorts of statistics are thrown around all the time with no scrutiny (and the fact that this one is far off compared to my own calculations has raised my eyebrows).
Jason Daniels, Brighton,
CO2 fascism strikes again! And can someone tell me what being transported by air has to do with whether or not something is organic? What business is it of the Soil Association how an organic product comes to market?
James Wheeldon, Louth, UK
This is nonsense. The Organic label was to give consumers information about the way food has been grown or prepared and that it is free from the use of artificial additives, fertilisers or pesticides.
This has nothing to do with the way food is distributed. If the Soil Association believes that consumers want information about "food miles" they should develop a suitable label to advise consumers accordingly.
Instead they risk compromising one information system by trying to communicate two, completely different messages.
Nick Winton, London,
This is complete nonsense! "Organic" means that food has been produced without artificial additives - it has nothing to do with how the food is distributed.
The Soil Association are in great danger of confusing the public by extending an excellent system into an area where it doesn't belong.
If they want to establish another grading system for "food miles" that's fine but it should be distinct and different from how the food is produced.
Nick Winton, London,
Is this article a wind up or what? Are you seriously suggesting that the Soil Association has come up with the sad idea of removing the 'organic' label from East Africa produce? Why do they not start nearer home and stop all the produce coming from The Netherlands that is grown in greenhouses that are heated 24 hours a day. Could someone enlighten us on the carbon foot print of a kilo of Dutch tomatoes versus a kilo from Kenya?
Anyway is the Soil Association the recognised authority for this? Under what mandate and from whom?
Iain, London,
The soil association should stick to its job. I want to know if the food is produced organically. How it gets to me is a different issue
Richard, Heathfiels, UK
This is unhelpful to say the least. The Organic label advises consumers about the way the food has been grown - without artificial fertilisers or pesticides.
To include "food miles" or "carbon footprint" will be very confusing as they are completely different issues.
If the Soil Association feels that consumers need information about food miles or CO2 load then they should develop another form of advice rather than compromise an established information system.
Nick Winton, London,
How to make yourself look stupid with one edict!!!!!!! Well done The Soil Association.....after all your good work getting cleaner soils in the UK, some media seeking individual has managed in one statement to damn you in the eyes of the vast majority of UK citizens...... Stick to getting UK soil clean of all the fertilisers and crap that flows into our water before interfering with other countries........
Peter, Midlands, UK
How refreshing to see an article that highlights the plight of the real victims of our current idiotic obsession with CO2. How much more much-needed development in countries such as Kenya will be held up, and how many more people will continue in poverty or be plunged back into it unneccessarily, before this fad passes away?
Stephen Morris, Shrewsbury, UK
The arrogance of Europeans and Brits is unbelievable. This is an excellent example. No wonder the third world hates us (yes, hates us!) It points out that when an agency or process is created to tackle a situation like global warning it hires fanatic, rigid jackasses with no imagination to oversee it and who justify their employment by adopting such nonesensical policies. It's simple: the food is there the markets are here. If you don't fly the produce it would rot by the time it arrived. If the third world can't farm what are supposed to do: have everyone get phd's in computer science so they can service our mortgages? And where do we get our food? Does anyone think that Europe can possibly be self-sufficient in food production? Maybe the US can but Europe and Britain can't.
david, los angeles, california
organic , carbon neural , ethical, fair trade . Ultimately, its all just a silly paradox. People should grow up and stop trying to play God. Just be thankful that we've got food to eat.
phollie, Bromley,
Is this article a wind up or what? Are you seriously suggesting that the Soil Association has come up with the sad idea of removing the 'organic' label from East Africa produce? Why do they not start nearer home and stop all the produce coming from The Netherlands that is grown in greenhouses that are heated 24 hours a day. Could someone enlighten us on the carbon foot print of a kilo of Dutch tomatoes versus a kilo from Kenya?
Anyway is the Soil Association the recognised authority for this? Under what mandate and from whom?
Iain, London,