Fresh whole fish

• The eyes should be clear and convex, not sunken.

• The flesh should be firm and resilient to finger pressure.

• The fish should smell freshly and lightly of the sea. Don’t buy fish with a strong ‘fishy’ or sulphurous odour, or that smells of ammonia. Oily fish like herring, mackerel and salmon should have a light, fresh oil smell, like linseed oil. If they smell of rancid oil, don’t buy.

Fresh fillets

• The surface of the fillet should be moist, with no signs of discolouration.

• The texture should be firm, with no mushiness. Some separation of the muscle flakes (caused by the filleting process) is completely normal, but it shouldn’t be excessive.

• As with whole fish, the smell should be fresh and light, with no ‘off’ odours.

Live bi-valves (including mussels, clams and oysters)

• The general rule of not buying bi-valves during any month spelled without an ‘r’ (ie May to August) still holds true, as this is the spawning season and quality will be poorer. When raw, the shells should be closed tight. Any slightly open shells that don’t close up in response to a few light taps should be discarded. When cooked, the shells should open – discard any that don’t.

Frozen fish

• Avoid frozen fish with a ‘cotton wool’ appearance to its surface – it’s the result of cold storage dehydration, or ‘freezer burn’, as it’s otherwise known.

Creating the Young’s Lexicon of Fish has been a rewarding experience. We are confident it will enrich your understanding and enjoyment of texture, taste

and aroma of the many species available and, more importantly, serve as a catalyst to encourage you to try something different when choosing seafood.

To find an excellent fishmonger near you visit the Real Food Directory

For more information on sustainability, fish recipes and species, and to buy The Young's Lexicon of Fish visit www.youngsfish.co.uk

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