Smash hit

It was a lucky moment for the food world when Claire Symington asked for a couple of geese for her birthday, which her husband Robert presented her with – then mentioned that there were thirty more in the trailer. From small beginnings the flock at Seldom Seen Farm is now around 4,000, raised slowly on grass, potatoes and corn at the 207 acre farm which also grows fruit and vegetables.

“Everything we do at Seldom Seen is by hand”, she says. “The geese are dry plucked, so that when they are cooked, the skin will be lovely and crispy and crackly, and they are hung for 10 days so the flavour matures and the meat becomes more tender. Every element from fresh air to hanging, makes a big difference to the flavour.”(£3.90 per 1lb).

The Symingtons also raise around 500 free-range Norfolk Bronze turkeys, and can also offer pheasant and partridge. Since they like to help you find just the right bird, you need to call them; but if you prefer to order on-line you can do that through Forman & Field (0208 5252 352; www.formanandfield.com). If you pick up your goose yourself, you can drop into the farm shop which has everything for Christmas from trees to Brussels sprouts on stalks and mince pies (0116 259 6742; www.seldomseenfarm.co.uk).

Goodmans Geese, Worcestershire

How to cook turkey, game and other birds

Five top chefs show you how to prepare and cook something traditional - or a little different

BACKGROUND

• Go for goose

• The perfect Christmas roast turkey

• Turkey tops the Christmas table

• Roast goose

• Gordon Ramsay: how to cook goose

BACKGROUND

• Christmas trimmings are the stars

• Proper red cabbage

• Smashed brussels (aka bubble-to-be)

• Perfect roast potatoes

• Parsnip gratin

BACKGROUND

• Spiced cranberry sauce

• Food detective: Gravy

• Sage and onion stuffing with apricots

• Bread sauce

• Ask Anjum: Indian food at Christmas

Christmas puddings and cakes

We've hand picked the tastiest home-made Christmas cakes and puddings in Britain

• Kids' food expert: sprouts

• Christmas in a box

• Christmas: turkey, geese and poultry

BACKGROUND

• Blackberry cheesecake

• Poached figs with zabaglione

• Panettone ripieno

• Chocolate Christmas cake

• Lemon cheesecake

BACKGROUND

• Top of the pops: best sparkling wine for Christmas

• Ten top wine choices for festive gifts

• The perfect mulled wine

• Top 10 tips for a cut-price Christmas

• Where to do your festive food shopping

Related Links

• Ham and bacon

• Go for goose

• Avian flu may have spread to a second farm

Judy Goodman also started rearing geese as a hobby and this year celebrates her 25th year of tending her free-range flocks (now up to 4,000) on the family dairy and arable farm in Worcestershire. The geese are raised in large paddocks on a diet free from additives and growth promoters; and the farm now produces a similar size flock of bronze turkeys. On-line November prices begin at £54 for a 4kg goose; £57.25 for a 5kg turkey. Or check the website for stockists (01299 896272; www.goodmansgeese.co.uk).

Exmoor Organic geese, ducks and chickens

Two years ago Rona and Nevil Amiss of Exmoor Organic moved to Higher Fingle Farm on the edge of Dartmoor, where they continue to farm organic geese, ducks and chickens and have built their own abattoir and cutting room. All the poulty is traditionally dry-plucked and hung. The geese graze on the grass and only come into their straw filled barns at night to be safe from foxes.

“They’re great fun. The children love them, especially when they are goslings, and they get quite attached to you and follow you around – so it’s sad when they go!” The birds are raised to stringent Soil Association Standards and finished on organic corn which gives the fat its rich gold colour.

The Amiss’s also produce the geese for the Duchy Originals label, which is sold in Sainsbury’s. This year they are also offering organic Bronze turkeys raised by a neighbouring farmer, but processed at Higher Fingle Farm. On-line prices begin at £54.50 for a small goose, about 4.5kg; £40 for a turkey, about 4kg. Or you can collect from the farm (01647 281281; www.exmoor-organic.co.uk).

Northfield Farm beef, free-range Bronze turkeys and geese, Rutland

Jan McCourt swapped his career as an investment banker for life as a farmer back in 1994 when he bought Northfield Farm at Cold Overton on the Rutland/Leicestershire border and began farming a small herd of rare and ancient breed of Dexter cattle. Since then the meat has constantly been applauded by chefs such as Rick Stein and Aaron Patterson at nearby Hambleton Hall, and if you’re looking for beef this Christmas, McCourt suggests one of the “great unsung heroes, a roasted rump”.

He has also become a champion of many other rare breeds, including White Park cattle, and as well as the animals raised at Northfield, around 50 small farms also rear animals for him, covering the whole spectrum of rare breeds. Accredited as a butcher by the Rare Breeds Survival Trust McCourt also offers farm-made sausages, bacon and stuffing, along with free range Bronze turkeys and geese, British cheeses, smoked salmon, home-cooked ready meals, preserves, and local bread, from his farm shop, his “cage” at London’s Borough Market, or on-line (01664 474271; www.northfieldfarm.com).

Times Recommends

• Top Ten most searched for recipes
• Chalet Chef 2010: the winning menus
• Gin and pomegranate jellies