Week 33: Mid-November - Reap and glow

I’ll be honest — I’ve done little more on the lottie this week than reap, reap, reap my rewards. Although there’s a list of chores as long as my shovel, one good thing about this time of year is that there’s nothing so pressing as to threaten what’s currently thriving. The weeds aren’t much competition and much of the bug life has long perished; the slugs are ever-present but not much of a match for anything edible. There is the issue of frost of course, and it has been pretty chilly, but still far from arctic conditions; I’m preparing for a nasty shock when I try to plunge a fork into frozen ground, but it seems unlikely, as London temperatures haven’t quite hit the zero degree mark for long enough...yet. I’ve set aside Saturday to get on with tasks like dismantling the bean frame and planting garlic and broad beans, as my final deadline for planting these is the end of the month by my calculations.

My energies are focused around the hearth of the kitchen, which is logically a more amenable place to dwell in November. The harvest of the cold months is bountiful, nourishing and colourful. Carbohydrate-rich potatoes are providing much needed wintry energy, featuring in bone-clinging sensations au gratin or mashed into creamy pillows under spicy sausages and gravy. The Pie has ventured into imaginative new territory using pumpkin, beetroot, chard and woody herbs like thyme and sage. I’m consulting the proud culinary traditions of the northern hemisphere for inspiration, and this week nobody does it better than…the Ukraine.

TIP OF THE WEEK If, like me, you are only just getting around to dismantling any long-gone bean frames, remember not to pull up the roots—they should be left to rot in the soil, as they fix nitrogen in it. Simply cut the plant at the bottom, pull out the canes and slide the dead growth off, cutting where necessary.

Seasonal recipe: Ukranian Borshch (Chunky Beetroot Soup with beans and cabbage)

There are multiple variants of Borshch throughout Eastern Europe and Russia, but the Ukraine claims sovereignty over the soup. But then so do the Polish. In any case, my Ukranian stepmother’s version is distinctively chunky, with many types of seasonal vegetables and kidney beans—so chunky that a spoon should stand upright in the pot. Ukrainians also prefer their Borshch hot and aromatic, whereas a smooth Russian Borshch can be served cold.

Take about 500g beetroot and 300g waxy potatoes; wash, peel and cut into small dice. Chop a celery heart and a carrot. Place them in a large soup pan with 1 litre water and generous seasoning. Bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer and cook until the vegetables are tender.

Meanwhile, chop one large onion, a green pepper and 3 cloves garlic, and shred 200g Savoy cabbage. Heat a frying pan over a moderate flame and melt 3 tbsp butter. Cook the onion with the green pepper until soft. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1-2 minutes. Add to the soup pan with 500ml tomato juice and return to a simmer. Add cabbage and 1 tin of drained kidney beans (400g) and cook until the cabbage is barely tender, about 5 minutes.

Perfect the seasoning with about 1-2 tbsp best wine vinegar and 1-2 tbsp brown sugar. Taste and adjust as desired. Serve each bowl hot, with an uncompromised dollop of rich sour cream, crème fraiche or yoghurt and a sprinkling of chopped chives or other herbs. Serves 6-8. (NB: Improves over time and freezes well.)

*Celia runs Gastrotours at Borough Market in London, which now includes brunch at Roast restaurant as part of the day’s feasting: www.celiabrooksbrown.com

Week 32: Early November 2007 - Cabbage patch goals

A blanket of crispy leaves is settling over the plot, a gift for the compost heap. I picked three huge fragrant pink roses this morning, but the dominant hues on the lottie are shades of brown and amber. Except the regal brassicas — this is their moment.

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