Find the best local produce in Wales

Modesty forbids that I should sing the praises of The Wynnstay Hotel, in Machynlleth, too loudly, but it is as good a place as any to begin, with both the restaurant and the wood-fired pizzeria making the best of our local bounty. The Wynnstay pizza is topped with smoked Gaerwen bacon, local leeks and Pont Gar cheese, while the Marinara has mixed seafood from Cardigan Bay.

We are ably aided and abetted in this by our award winning butcher Will Lloyd Williams (directly opposite) where I can make my choice from the beef, lamb and pork that can be seen grazing in the lush Dyfi valley. Meats to look out for are Arwyn Y Wig's Welsh Black Beef, Salt-marsh lamb from Gogarth or Penmaendyfi and Middle White pork.

Blasau deli is just around the corner where the dedication of Ed Hammond can be seen in the display of fine food and drink, based firmly on local produce. His wine stocks include a pinot noir rose and a sparkling Chardonnay from the newly established Penarth vineyards and a mixed blend red from Ffynnon Las vineyards, plus delicious handmade chocolate.

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Machynlleth stands on the River Dyfi, a great source of salmon and sewin (the Welsh name for sea trout) in season, and has a charter market (every Wednesday, rain or shine, in the main street), which can trace its history back to the 13th Century. You'll find Fresh and Local there, with a tempting array of salads, herbs, pickles, chutneys and cakes as well as Aberystwyth's organic "Treehouse" with its vegetables and herbs.

Aberystwyth is also home to Ultracomida, a Spanish-themed delicatessen and cafe with delicious Welsh cheeses, pickles and chutneys. Mach, as the locals say, is home to our guardians of biodiversity, the Dyfi Valley Seedsavers, whose annual 'Seedy Sunday' seed swap and programme of talks has attained international importance. The problems that Monoculture and sterile hybrids cause in agriculture are well documented elsewhere, but here in the valley Chloe, Imogen and crew are doing their best to keep food tradition and biodiversity alive.

At the mouth of the Dyfi is Aberdyfi, where in Chapel Square Gill’s Plaice (groan) will offer the best of local day boats and lobstermen alongside sustainably sourced fish from around our coast. Gill’s ambition is to return Dyfi estuary shellfish to local menus, and we’re all in favour of that.

Heading East, Jonathan Rees at Welsh Farm Organics has garnered a clutch of awards for his beef, lamb and meat products, including the stunning 'Maldwyn Cure', a cured and air-dried beef of intense flavour, and a wonderful smoked sausage. Returning further down the A483/470 we arrive at Caersws, where we come across a one-woman powerhouse called Lavinia Vaughan. As well as sterling work for school meals, she has her own ready-meal business and has recently re- opened the village store as a farm shop and delicatessen! Where does she find the time?

There is a long tradition in Wales of smoking and curing meats, and at Llandinam Linda and Ithyl Brown's Neuadd Fach baconry is, I am delighted to say, keeping the faith with a range of bacon, gammon and sausages that are gaining a wide following both locally and nationally.

Returning via Aberystwyth, we head South to Trawscoed, where Tony and Gwen Burgess have built up one of Wales' best suppliers of free-range Freedom Food eggs, Birchgrove Poultry. They are dedicated Slow Fooders, and Tony is also very active working to improve standards in the much-maligned poultry trade. A little further down the coast is our furthest point, Aberaeron, where Sarah Holgate's 'Hive on the Quay’ delivers all that is best in seasonal freshness- not to mention a killer honey ice-cream!

Back North to 'Aber' and on the way to 'Mach', passing the salt marshes of the Dyfi estuary, with its delicately flavoured lamb (and sea-vegetables for those in the know!) and Ynyshir Hall, long the home of Joan and Rob Reen, now under new ownership (with Joan's involvement), but still the epitome of a "Country House Hotel' in all its peace and tranquillity. Back to the bustle of 'Mach', where a foaming pint of ale awaits by The Wynnstay's log fire. I don't know about you, but I'm ready for one! Try a pint of Brains' Reverend James or Wye Valley's Butty Bach (little friend). Lechyd Da!

Gareth Johns is the convivium leader for Slow Food Dyfi Valley
E-mail: gareth@wynnstay-hotel.com

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