What is it and where is it from?

Forced rhubarb is out-of-season rhubarb grown indoors, a speciality of "the rhubarb triangle" south of Leeds in West Yorkshire.

What is its heritage?

Rhubarb became important here in the late 19th century. Medium-heavy clay soil, a micro-climate which produces a frost pocket in winter, and waste wool from the local textile industry (used as fertiliser) were ideal for cultivating rhubarb, a plant actually native to the banks of Siberian rivers. Cheap coal from local mines heated the forcing sheds which produced rhubarb early in the year when fresh fruit was scarce.

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For forcing, rhubarb crowns (roots) are grown, unharvested, outdoors for two years, with a dressing of fertiliser each spring. Crowns become dormant in autumn and for forcing need ‘vernalisation’, exposure to a certain amount of cold, before they are lifted in midwinter, hosed clean of soil, and closely packed on the floors of special sheds in complete darkness at a temperature of 26 degrees Centigrade.

Warmth makes them grow; dark makes them produce shoots which are tenderer and paler than rhubarb produced outdoors later in the year. Harvesting takes place in minimal light, provided by candles. Careless harvesting encourages botrytis which rots the crowns, so the sticks are pulled by hand to ensure they part cleanly from the plant.

At the end of forcing, the exhausted rootstock is discarded. The process is lengthy and capital intensive, requiring special buildings, fuel for heating and skilled labour, and only 12 growers are left.

What does it look and taste like?

Best quality forced rhubarb has stems about 40 – 45 cm long and 1 – 2 cm thick; they should be completely white inside with a fine, deep pink skin (shade varies with variety); the leaves (which are inedible but indicate quality) should be small, and bright, acid, greeny-yellow. The flavour is acid, delicate, but more pronounced than faster-grown Dutch forced rhubarb.

How is it used?

Although not technically a fruit, it is cooked in compotes, pies, crumbles, and jams; fermented for ‘wine’; and sometimes used as an ingredient in savoury dishes including soups and gravies.

Where can I buy it?

An active marketing campaign by the growers means that forced rhubarb from Yorkshire is widely available in markets and grocers from late December – late March.

©Laura Mason

Slow Food is an international eco-gastronomic movement which promotes the enjoyment and protection of locally grown produce. For more information on how to join your regional convivium and forthcoming events: www.slowfood.org.uk

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