What is it and where is it from?

Unpasteurised cow’s milk cheese produced on-farm in Somerset, using local "pint starter" cultures, animal rennet and traditional cylindrical moulds, matured for a minimum of 11 months.

Three farms produce according to this specification, forming a Slow Food Presidium (a group established to protect and nurture a tradition). They are Montgomery’s, at North Cadbury; Keen's, at Wincanton, and Westcombe Dairy near Shepton Mallet.

What is its heritage?

Cheddar, a village on the northern edge of the excellent pastures of Somerset, gave its name to cheeses noted for both excellence and large size, first recorded in the late 16th century. Caves in the nearby gorge may have originally acted as a place for maturing the cheese, and late 18th-century tourism to them almost certainly provided a market for it.

Manufacture was spread over a much wider area of Somerset. Farmers sometimes contributed milk to "cheddar clubs", co-operatives producing cheeses larger than individuals could make alone. In the late 19th century, cheesemaking schools taught the method for making this well-flavoured, robust cheese far beyond Somerset.

Making cheddar involves turning and stacking piles of finely cut curd, developing a characteristic acidity in the finished product. This is so closely identified with cheddar cheese that it has become known as "cheddaring". Despite the spread of the method round the world, a nucleus of on-farm producers remained in the area.

What does it look and taste like?

Properly made traditional cheddars are large, weighing 50 – 60lbs (22 – 27kg), cylindrical and cloth-bound. These cheeses are hard, although the texture varies from quite smooth (Keen’s) to crumbly (Montgomery’s); colour and flavour vary according to season and maker, but is creamy yellow to golden-yellow, with notes of caramelised milk, herbs/grass and nutty flavours, always with a mild underlying acidity. The use of animal rennet avoids the bitter note sometimes found in cheese made with vegetarian rennet.

How is it used?

Alone with cider, as part of a cheeseboard, or in recipes requiring intensely flavoured cheese.

Where can I buy it?

Somerset Artisan Cheddar made on the three farms named is available from many good cheesemongers, or by mail order from www.nealsyarddairy.co.uk (020 7500 7653); www.paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk (01451 823460); www.thecheeseshed.com (01626 836762); www.farmhousecheesemakers.com (01749 344544); www.teddingtoncheese.co.uk (020 8977 6868). Keen’s have their own website: www.keenscheddar.co.uk

Slow Food is an international eco-gastronomic movement which promotes the enjoyment and protection of locally grown produce. For more information on how to join your regional convivium and forthcoming events: www.slowfood.org.uk

For a selection of the best artisan cheeses brought to Times Online readers direct from farms and hand-selected by the Fine Cheese Co. Click here for further details

©Laura Mason

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