Eating out is not history any more than Lidl is the new Waitrose. Not yet, anyway. But as the credit crunch bites old habits die hard. Fish and chip shops have seen an increase in sales for the first time in five years according to figures released by Seafish, the authority on seafood.

One in every £100 spent on food is in a fish and chip shop, equating to more than 276 million fish suppers sold each year from almost 10,500 shops.

With so much fish hitting the deep-fat fryer, traditional chippies such as the Townhead Café, in the Scottish Borders town of Biggar, winner of the Fish and Chip Shop of the Year award 2008, are embracing the issues of overfishing and sustainable sourcing. The owner, Gordon Hillan, clearly displays the source of line-caught seafood he serves and uses posters to tempt hungry customers to taste alternatives to cod such as gurnard, pollack and hake.

Flash chippies aren't super cheap - expect to pay about £10 for a takeaway - but they are do have their eco priorities in order and can still be a cheaper option than eating three courses in neighbouring restaurants.

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At London’s boutique fish and chip shops, such as the Fish Club (thefishclub.com), in Clapham, and the Sea Cow (theseacow.co.uk), in East Dulwich, customers pick their day-boat fresh fish from the counter before it’s grilled or fried and served with chunky chips and minted mushy peas.

It’s out with saveloys and in with razor clams, smoked sprats, prawn and chorizo kebabs and unusual catches such as coley, a firm, meaty fish coated in a tempura-light batter.

Nationwide chains such as FishWorks and Loch Fyne restaurants also follow sustainable guidelines and have some tempting deals on currently to keep customers coming through the doors in the tough economic climate. Loch Fyne has an offer of £11 for two courses with a glass of wine until the end of September.

UK'S TOP 10 CLASSIC CHIPPIES

As judged by a selection of industry representatives including previous winners, industry writers and members of organisations such as Seafish, the British Potato Council and the National Federation of Fish Friers.

1. The Townhead Café (Biggar, Scotland)

185 High Street, Biggar, ML12 6DJ (T: 01899 221001; www.townheadbiggar.com)

Recently announced as Scotland’s number one chippy, the Townhead Café is a splendid, family-run business sourcing predominantly fresh Scottish haddock from sustainable waters off Shetland. An excellent example of a community fish and chip shop, it is a welcome stop for a heart-warming plate of fish and chips.

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