Thanksgiving, which is celebrated on Thursday (November 27) this year in America, acts like a dry run for Christmas – a chance to pig out on turkey and all the trimmings.

The traditional side dishes that accompany the roasted bird may vary according to region but usually include sweet potatoes baked with either marshmallows or maple syrup; stuffing, known as “dressing”, and made with herbs, cornbread, wild rice, chillies, chestnuts or sausage depending on the state; New England cranberry relish as a tart foil to all the sweetness on the plate, and, for pudding, the acquired taste that is pumpkin pie.

Both pumpkin and butternut squash are versatile types of winter squash that can be sautéed, mashed or used in soups and curries.

Delicata has a striped skin and tastes like sweet potato; kabocha, or Japanese squash, turns into bright mash or soup and the smaller acorn variety roasts well whole. As a rule of thumb, the smaller the squash the more intense its flavour will be.

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The soft texture and slight sweetness of pumpkin and squash flesh – not to mention the amber glow - partners well with sage, cream, bacon, chilli and cheese.

Valentine Warner roasts pumpkin tranches with garlic and sage served with shaved pecorino, and Anjum Anand makes a warming autumnal Bengali squash with spicy chickpeas dish.

Roasted wedges of squash need a balanced middle of the road wine, neither too rich nor too dry. A chenin blanc should do the trick. Try a Ken Forrester The FMC 2006, from Stellenbosch, South Africa (about £17.95, Waitrose); its smoky, off-dry character finds a match in the slight sweetness of roasted pumpkin.

In England, the good folks of Plymouth, in Devon, lay on a hearty Thanksgiving spread to commemorate their Mayflower heritage. While restaurants offering festive menus include Momma Cherri’s Soul Food Shack in Brighton, and in London, Christopher’s in Covent Garden and Lilly’s in Wapping.

Raise a glass of Loredona Pinot Noir 2005 Monterey to the pilgrims who first celebrated Thanksgiving in 1621. This fruity Californian red is a smart alternative to Burgundy to serve with turkey (£8.99; bibendum-wine.co.uk)

Butternut squash Spiced carrot and butternut squash soup ; Butternut squash and vanilla soup ; Roast butternut pumpkin ; Braised brisket with butternut and cinnamon ; Roasted duck breast with butternut squash, braised chestnuts and plum sauce ; Squash and feta super-salad and gingery soup ; Butternut squash with Lebanese lamb and garlic yoghurt ; Roast squash with coriander pesto ; Squash, runner bean and coconut curry ; Lamb and butternut squash tagine ; Squash and shrimp soup

Pumpkins Pumpkin soup with chermoula ; Roast butternut pumpkin ; Honey-glazed pumpkin wedges ; Roasted pumpkin crostini with pancetta ; Roast pumpkin, goat cheese and walnuts ; Pumpkin risotto ; Pasta with pumpkin and chestnuts ; Spiced Pumpkin Cake ; Sweet pumpkin pie

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