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RESTAURANTS
BILL’S PRODUCE STORE
The Depot, 100 North Road, Brighton (01273 692894; www.billsproducestore.co.uk)
Splendid greengrocer-café combo that has boosted Brighton’s food scene with unpretentious deli-dining. Salads are an explosion of colour, unusual leaves, purple potatoes and groundnut sprouts, but you can still have a superb bacon buttie and boiled egg at the communal tables.
THE BLACK BOYS INN
Henley Road, Hurley, Berkshire (01628 824212; www.blackboysinn.co.uk)
The Good Food Guide's Berkshire newcomer of the year is set in a restored 16th-century inn and has an informative menu with kiln-roasted salmon from the River Dart, “handpicked” crab from Salcombe and free-range chicken. Farmer McBride delivers super-fresh organic eggs, butter and cream, and locals supply bags of woodland mushrooms when in season. Chef Simon Bonwick cooks steamed Cornish monkfish served with a multi-bean cassoulet (a scattering of chorizo and a hint of duck fat).
THE COMPANY SHED
West Mersea, Essex (01206 382700; www.richardhawardsoysters.co.uk)
Cap'n Bridseye lookalike Richard Haward serves up oysters in a weather-beaten
shack right next to the stretch of water where his family has farmed
shellfish for 200 years. Other dishes chalked up on the daily specials board
include cooked lobster, dressed crab and a cold seafood platter. Oh, and BYO
booze.
THE CROOKED BILLET
Newlands Lane, Stoke Row, Henley On Thames, RG9 5PU (01491 681048; www.thecrookedbillet.co.uk)
This very characterful pub stands in a lovely, remote setting off the beaten
track. The kitchen is virtually self-sufficient, as much of the produce for
the imaginative and very varied menu, including Aberdeen Angus, Jacob sheep,
poultry, guinea fowl and eggs, comes from its own nearby farm.
GOODS SHED
Station Road West, Canterbury (01227 459153)
Earthy showcase of the best of English food in a light, converted engine shed
filled with bustle from the farmers’ market below. Dishes include roast
organic chicken with sorrel, Swiss chard and potatoes, followed by English
cheese and home-made cinnamon ice-cream.
THE JOLLY SPORTSMAN
Chapel Lane, East Chiltington, East Sussex (01273 890400)
A comfy gastropub in a leafy lane, where the modern British menu is carefully
sourced. Whole sea bass in blanc noir butter and ultra-fresh oysters are
prime examples and there’s a whiff of excellence in the choice of
microbrewery beers.
MICHAEL CAINES AT ABODE
High Street, Canterbury, Kent (01227 826679; www.abodehotels.co.uk)
Latest dining outlet in the Michael Caines’ hotel and culinary empire – Exeter
and Glasgow are up and running and Manchester and Chester on the cards. As
in his excellent Exeter restaurant, the menu reflects a close relationship
with local suppliers and showcases the best Kentish produce such as beef and
lobster, and Romney Marsh lamb.
THE PLACE
New Lydd Road, Camber Sands, East Sussex (01797 225057;
www.theplacecambersands.co.uk)
Much of the food at this beach brasserie is grilled and seasonal. Locally
sourced, free range and organic ingredients include Rye Bay fish and
seafood, Romney Marsh lamb, vegetables, salads and herbs from nearby farms.
Organic ice-cream comes from a small farm in Devon and wines include labels
from Sussex and Kent.
THE ROYAL STANDARD
Brindle Lane, Forty Green, Beaconsfield Buckinghamshire HP9 1XT (01494
673382; www.rsoe.co.uk)
The coat of arms and title were granted by Charles II in 1651 who sheltered
here after the Battle of Worcester. With a history going back 900 years it's
reputedly England’s oldest freehouse. The food is described as 'grandma's
cooking at its best' and items like ham with free-range egg and chips,
cottage pie and Welsh lamb chops from Tilley Farm in Elwy Valley fit the
bill perfectly. The lunchtime cheeseboard with around 35 varieties is a
speciality as are the Sunday roasts.
THE VAULTS AND GARDEN CAFE
University Church of St Mary the Virgin, Radcliffe Square, Oxford OX1
4AH (01865 279112; www.vaultsandgarden.co.uk)
Dating from 1320, the Old Congregation House, with its vaulted ceiling forms
one of two unique and atmospheric dining areas. Weather permitting, the
gardens are equally impressive. The food's prepared from natural, seasonal
and organic ingredients using only traditional cooking styles - ie. no
microwave ovens, non-stick or aluminium cookware. Open from 8.30am for
breakfast through to 6pm and the changing daily menu might include smoked
mackerel and fresh haddock fishcakes with hollandaise, chicken and fennel
risotto, and chocolate raspberry and almond torte.
MEAT
COOPERS FARM
East Sussex (01580 200386; www.coopersfarmstonegate.co.uk)
Ten years ago Jane Brewer, 48, and her husband Adrian, 46, sat in a bar in
Paris and worked out what the family would need to live on if they sold up
in London and took on a farm. Now they and their daughters, Matilda, 11, and
Rose, 9, have lived on their own farm in a small village in East Sussex for
seven years. They sell beef, lamb and pork reared on their farm in the High
Weald. Adrian runs the sheep — 70 breeding ewes — and does most of what Jane
calls the “boy stuff” on the farm while she does “the money, childcare and
cooking”.
DAIRY BARN FARM SHOP
North Houghton, Stockbridge, Hampshire SO20 6LF (01264 811405; www.dairybarn.co.uk)
Dairy Barn Farm Shop was opened in 1999 after lobbying from friends and
relatives who enjoyed the unique flavour of rare and minority breed meat
from Sue Gotting's Hampshire farm. Sue's animals are reared non-intensively
and graze local nature reserves and it shows in the quality of her beef,
lamb and pork produced from rare breeds such as Manx Loghtan sheep, Dexter
cattle and Tamworth pigs. Sue is a regular stall holder at the Hampshire
farmers’ market in Winchester, Alton, Southsea and Andover see www.hampshirefarmersmarkets.co.uk.
THE FINE BEEF COMPANY
Peterley House, Little Kingshill, Great Missenden, Bucks HP16 0EB
(01494 863662; www.thefinebeefcompany.co.uk)
Set up in 2006 by 25-year-old Polly Conroy, The Fine Beef Company farms 100
acres high in the Chiltern Hills, South Bucks. The farm specialises in Old
English beef breeds including, Old English Longhorn, White Park, Dexter and
Aberdeen Angus. Tradition is the key word and the belief that very slowly
rearing these old breeds, slaughtering properly, hanging on the bone from
anything between four to six weeks and butchering using only old fashioned
techniques with a master butcher, creates the best environment for seriously
excellent beef. The herd are single suckled and roam the buttercup pasture
for ten months of the year, encouraging a natural and happy life.They're
grass-fed until they go into a dry barn for the worst of the winter, where
their diet is simply hay from the fields.
TABLEHURST FARM
Forest Row, East Sussex (01342 823173)
Small farm shop selling biodynamic and organic lamb and marbly beef from many
rare breeds, plus 25 varieties of sausages, all butchered on site, and much
sought after by chefs from Michel Roux to Antony Worrall Thompson.
WAKELINGS
Goldalming, Surrey (01483 417557; www.wakelings.co.uk)
The Wakeling family have been running this butcher’s shop since 1952, and
specialise in sourcing beef, lamb, pork, poultry and venison from local
farms, which they also sell at farmers’ markets near by and by mail order. ()
FISH
BUTLEY ORFORD
Oysterage, Sussex (01394 450277;
www.butleyorfordoysterage.co.uk)
Oysters from local beds have been served in the restaurant since the Sixties.
You can buy the Pacific oysters in the shop, along with fish landed daily by
the business’s own boats. The catch ranges from lobster and crab to mullet,
herring, cod and salmon. Salmon, trout and mackerel smoked at the oysterage
can be bought by mail order.
HAMMER TROUT FARM AND SMOKERY
Liphook, Hampshire (01428 727508)
Built in 1968 and refurbished in 1990, this is one of the oldest established
trout farms in the country. As well as high quality fresh trout, owner
Graham Beer sells smoked trout and salmon, fish pâtés, smoked chicken,
venison and other smoked meats and game. Shortlisted for UKTV's Local Food
Heroes 2006.
WHITSTABLE SHELLFISH COMPANY
Whitstable, Kent (01227 282375; www.whitstable-shellfish.co.uk)
Phillip Guy fishes wild natives from oyster beds on the Kentish Flats that
date back to Roman times. Connoisseurs tend to prefer the native oyster,
which takes around five years to grow to maturity and is at its best from
October onwards. “The Whitstable native is highly sought after because it
has a much deeper shell than its counterparts in other waters, so it has a
higher meat content,” Guy says. However, he also sells faster-growing,
larger Pacific (rock) oysters farmed in sea lochs on the west coast of
Scotland.
FRUIT & VEG
BILL’S PRODUCE STORE
Lewes, East Sussex (01273 476918) and Brighton (01273 692894; www.billsproducestore.co.uk)
Accolades have been heaped on Bill’s two stores (each with its own café),
which are bursting with fresh produce, flowers and cakes. “We like to make
the store into a farmers’ market every day,” says Bill, who sources as much
as possible from local growers. “Even if they bring us just four pounds of
brilliant runner beans, we’ll sell them for them.”
THE REAL JAM AND CHUTNEY CO
Winchester, Hampshire (01962 861411; www.realjam.co.uk)
The simple fact that Hazel Southam could never find raspberry jam as good as
the one made by her grandmother resulted in the creation of the Real Jam and
Chutney Company. The Constance Hall range includes 10 jams, three
marmalades, five chutneys and seasonal preserves such as lemon curd, Seville
orange marmalade and lemon and ginger marmalade. Shortlisted for UKTV's
Local Food Heroes 2006.
RINGDEN FARM
Etchingham, East Sussex (01580 879385; www.ringdenfarm.co.uk)
Specialises in juice from 23 varieties of apple and six varieties of pear. You
can buy juices made from specific apples, the taste ranging from dry to
medium sweet. The farm also produces blended juices. Apples and other local
fruit and vegetables are sold.
SECRETTS OF MILFORD
Godalming, Surrey (01483 520500; www.secretts.co.uk)
Suppliers of fruit and vegetables and about 35 varietes of salad leaf to
leading restaurants. You can buy from the farm shop, flower shop or garden
centre and have lunch at the restaurant or tea shop. Speciality salad leaves
can be sent out mail order all year round, along with asparagus in season.
WINE
BERRY BROS & RUDD
Hampshire (0870 9004300; www.bbr.com)
Experienced staff and an online list with 4,500 fine wines.
FARMERS’ MARKETS
CANTERBURY FARMERS’ MARKET
Station Road West Tues-Sat, 8am-6pm, Sun 10-4pm. (01227 45913; www.canterbury.co.uk)
The UK’s first permanent farmers’ market, selling mainly local produce.
Sausages, game, fresh fruit and vegetables. Have lunch in the on-site
restaurant, then visit the national fruit collection at nearby Brogdale
(it’s apple season, make the most of it!).
WINCHESTER FARMERS’ MARKET
Middle Brook Street car park Second and last Sun of the month, 9am-2pm.
(01420 588671; www.hampshirefarmersmarkets.co.uk)
Representing more than 90 local producers, this is the largest UK farmers’
market and “popular with Rick Stein”. Find venison, game, guinea fowl,
ostrich, home-baked bread, crabs fresh from the Solent, smoked fish, water
buffalo, Dexter beef, Manx Loughton lamb, preserves, British wine and beer,
and local apple juice. All produce comes from within 10 miles of the
Hampshire border.
WYE FARMERS’ MARKET
The Green First and third Sat of the month, 9am-noon. (01233 813303;
www.wyefarmersmarket.co.uk)
This community initiative, and the oldest farmers’ market in Kent, is
dedicated to bringing local food to local people. Now is the time to choose
fresh sweetcorn, pumpkins and squash, apples and pears. A good selection of
meat, fish, honey, bread and juices, many of them organic.
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What would you say is the average rental price of a stall at a Farmers Market?
Do they vary very much?
Adrienne Norbury, East Sussex
Adrienne Nobury, Battle, , East Sussex
I really think that the Crab & Winkle Restaurant & Whitstable Fish Market deserve a mention in here. They both source seafood from sustainable sources and serve great local food.
Ben Walton, Whitstable, Kent