As soon as the first daffodils come peeking through, we start clamouring for what we think of as “spring lamb”. Most chefs and butchers, however, say the best time to eat lamb is in summer-autumn, when true spring lamb, ie, from animals born in springtime, is at its succulent sweetest, having fed on lush vegetation to form a nice layer of fat. But lamb, with its symbolism of renewal, has become the turkey of the Easter feast. The lamb we will be eating now will have been born indoors in winter, grazing on lowland grasses and supplementary feed, so its flesh is light in colour and flavour. Llandeilo butcher Dewi Roberts, who has been farming Welsh lamb for 23 years, says: “Lamb lends itself to different ways of cooking throughout the year, from very young and pink now, to sweeter in the summer [great for grilling], then stronger in flavour as the animals age until they become ‘hoggets’, at just under a year old [best for casseroles and slow roasts].”

What is the difference between Welsh lowland and mountain lamb?
Lowland breeds are larger, often grazing in valleys, where the weather is milder. Mountain breeds are smaller and adapted to a harsher environment, lambing in March and April (providing meat from July to late autumn) and graze on herbs and heathers, giving their meat a distinct flavour.

What is salt marsh lamb?
Also a speciality in France (“pré-salé”), this is available from the end of April. Lambs graze on salt-tolerant vegetation, particularly samphire, in coastal estuaries. “If I had a pound for every person who asks if it tastes of salt I could retire,” says Roberts. “It doesn’t taste salty, but its flavour is unique.”

Does organic matter?
Sheep farming is less intensive than other meat production, so the main importance of the organic approach is its ban on certain chemicals in sheep dip and regular worming. Bill Lawrence of Cambrian Organics explains that there is often little early-season organic lamb, “because lambs born in winter need supplementary organic feed, which is often in short supply, while those born from around February (whose meat will be ready around May) can be put straight out to grass”.

Where to buy
Welsh lowland, mountain and salt marsh lamb, from around £4.50 per kg, from Dewi Roberts (01558 822566) and Edwards of Conwy (01492 592443; www.edwardsofconwy.co.uk). Cambrian Organics half mountain lamb, £45 (01559 363151; www.cambrianorganics.com). Graig Farm Organics Lake Vyrnwy mountain lamb, various boxes from £10.06 per kg (01597 851655; www.graigfarm.co.uk).

Readers’ queries

Can you suggest any ethically sound Easter eggs?

Booja Booja organic champagne truffles come inside hand-painted eggs made by artists in Kashmir. Profits support their communities, and 10 per cent will go to rebuilding after the recent earthquakes. From Selfridges and Graig Farm Organics (£16.89, see above).

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